Main Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Rock
|Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R|
|Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13|
|Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R|
|Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|GPS:||37.889, -122.633 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||25,403 total, 137/month|
|Shared By:||Aron Quiter on Sep 14, 2002|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.
There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.
There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.
This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.
Getting ThereFrom the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.
The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season