Elevation: 73 ft
GPS: 37.889, -122.633 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,746 total · 313/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 14, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.

There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.

There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.

This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.

Getting There

From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.

The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 123
Stemmer
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 90
Walkin' a Thin Line
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 42
Torque
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 39
Courtney
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Nancy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 66
Hot Tuna
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Moby Dick
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 41
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Scorpio Rising
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Megalodon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
 6
Naked and Disfigured
Sport, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Holy Mackerel
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Mutiny
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Dreams of White Porsches
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Mickey's Beach Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stemmer
 123
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Walkin' a Thin Line
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Torque
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Sport, TR
Courtney
 39
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Nancy
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Tuna
 66
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Moby Dick
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sex Porpoises
 41
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Scorpio Rising
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Megalodon
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Naked and Disfigured
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Sport, TR
Holy Mackerel
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mutiny
 3
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dreams of White Porsches
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Mickey's Beach Arete
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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