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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Description

This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.

There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.

There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.

This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.

Getting There

From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.

The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Corner Route
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 56
Walkin' a Thin Line
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 28
Left Slab
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Sharky's Machine
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Courtney
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Nancy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Hot Tuna
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Pelicans
Sport, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
The Mickey's Beach 4x7
Sport 7 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
 4
Naked and Disfigured
Sport, TR
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Wet Dreams
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
 3
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Holy Mackerel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Corner Route
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Walkin' a Thin Line
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Left Slab
 28
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Sport, TR
Sharky's Machine
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
Courtney
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Nancy
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Tuna
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pelicans
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
The Mickey's Beach 4x7
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport 7 pitches
Sex Porpoises
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Naked and Disfigured
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R Sport, TR
Wet Dreams
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Se…
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Holy Mackerel
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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Photos

Hey folks, someone swiped 6 of my draws (5 brand new black/gold black diamond and 1 old gray BD draw) off of 'Sturgeon' either 9/19 or 9/20. If that was you or you know the person who grabbed them, please email me at ijameswalters@gmail.com. Thank you! Aug 21, 2016

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