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> Lakeside in the Woods
The Reacharound
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 86
votes
Routes in Lakeside in the Woods
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A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fearless Fraser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freeloader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Colin Moorehead, Damien Kelly, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 2,744 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Hans on Oct 20, 2012 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Illegal Camping
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.
Vancouver, BC
I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.
You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."
For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning. Jul 1, 2013
Burlington, CT
Livermore, CA & South Lake…
Bend, OR
I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail. Aug 5, 2014
Seattle, WA
Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.
I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?
Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though. Aug 25, 2014
Livermore, CA & South Lake…
Las Vegas, NV
One tip- stay left of the tree up top, it really helps with rope drag. Jul 5, 2017
Vancouver,
Vancouver, BC
All the gear recommendations here are on point, this climb takes everything. Save a green camalot for when you get out of the chimney. I didn't place anything bigger than a #3, but if you want to sew it up take doubles of hand/fist sized gear.
For cleaning the route, seconding someone up and having them clean would be ideal. I was the only one in my party climbing it so I cleaned it on rappel, which was manageable but definitely not preferred. Sep 3, 2017