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Routes in Lakeside in the Woods

A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fearless Fraser S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Freeloader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Colin Moorehead, Damien Kelly, 1997
Page Views: 2,134 total, 35/month
Shared By: Hans on Oct 20, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.

Location

At the north end (right side) of Lakeside in the Woods.

Protection

The route takes a variety of gear from Metolius 2 (yellow) up to Black Diamond 4 or equivalent. Double up on mid-size (BD 0.5 to 1).
This route felt like wrestling a bear, what a climb. I was sore head to toe the next day.

All the gear recommendations here are on point, this climb takes everything. Save a green camalot for when you get out of the chimney. I didn't place anything bigger than a #3, but if you want to sew it up take doubles of hand/fist sized gear.

For cleaning the route, seconding someone up and having them clean would be ideal. I was the only one in my party climbing it so I cleaned it on rappel, which was manageable but definitely not preferred. Sep 3, 2017
Khoi
Vancouver, BC
Khoi   Vancouver, BC
I had my second clean the route on his way up Aug 16, 2017
Curt Doeswhathedoes
Vancouver,
Curt Doeswhathedoes   Vancouver,
Curious on how others approach retrieving their gear on this climb? as the sharper block near the anchor is a little bugger. Jul 26, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Great climb, pretty 5.9 for Squamish and most places I've climbed, including the Sierra.

One tip- stay left of the tree up top, it really helps with rope drag. Jul 5, 2017
Melissa Thaw
Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
  5.7
Melissa Thaw   Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
  5.7
whoops, PG13 was a mistake - sorry! yes, lots of great pro! I still think it is not a 5.9, though! Sep 20, 2014
AndySkol
Seattle, WA
  5.9
AndySkol   Seattle, WA
  5.9
MelissaThaw's rating is obviously bogus, probably trolling. Once you get slightly off the deck there's nothing you can hit, and plenty of pro. Not PG13. Also, 5.6 or 7?

Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.

I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?

Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though. Aug 25, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
Totally fun. I hand traversed out the big rail and made it harder for myself (accidently). My partners simply worked up into the chimney for a move. Duh. That made way more sense.

I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail. Aug 5, 2014
Ed kelly
  5.9
Ed kelly  
  5.9
Fantastic climb. Has great moves, solid pro, and big rests. I think you could do this with almost any rack, there is such a variety of cracks and flakes you can place practically any piece from any stance. I placed everything from 0 mastercam to #4 c4, but needed neither. One note though, if you plan on top roping it might be a good idea to bring something to extend the anchor about 8 feet. The edge is quite sharp and rough on the rope if you want to lower over it. It is also not really feasible to clean your gear on rappel. Jul 13, 2014
Melissa Thaw
Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
  5.7
Melissa Thaw   Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
  5.7
I think this route would be rated 5.6 or 5.7 if it was in the Sierra because there are so many rests on big ledges and tons of gear that's easy to place. The hand jams made it easier, too. Jul 5, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
this climb is phenomenal and reminds me of the gunks. Jul 3, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9+
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9+
Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.

I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.

You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."

For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning. Jul 1, 2013