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The Reacharound
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
FA: | Colin Moorehead, Damien Kelly, 1997 |
Page Views: | 2,254 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Hans on Oct 20, 2012 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Description
Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.
Vancouver, BC
I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.
You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."
For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning. Jul 1, 2013
Burlington, CT
Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
Bend, OR
I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail. Aug 5, 2014
Seattle, WA
Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.
I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?
Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though. Aug 25, 2014
Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
Las Vegas, NV
One tip- stay left of the tree up top, it really helps with rope drag. Jul 5, 2017
Vancouver,
Vancouver, BC
All the gear recommendations here are on point, this climb takes everything. Save a green camalot for when you get out of the chimney. I didn't place anything bigger than a #3, but if you want to sew it up take doubles of hand/fist sized gear.
For cleaning the route, seconding someone up and having them clean would be ideal. I was the only one in my party climbing it so I cleaned it on rappel, which was manageable but definitely not preferred. Sep 3, 2017