Mickey's Beach Climbing
|GPS:||37.889, -122.633 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||132,635 total · 692/month|
|Shared By:||Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionMickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.
The whole area is free.
A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.
The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.
Getting ThereFrom S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.
From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mickey's Beach
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season