Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 65 ft 20 m
GPS: 37.8886, -122.6327
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 540,007 total · 2,023/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependent. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There Suggest change

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

178 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mickey's Beach Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mickey's Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V8 7B
 22
Little Wing (Sit)
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Micro Aggression
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Toxic Masculinity
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 81
Sign Language
Sport
Egg
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 105
Egghead
Sport
Egg
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 38
The Bronze Hog
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 51
Mogolef
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Courtney
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 39
The Choss Whisperer
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 57
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 41
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Scorpio Rising
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Holy Mackerel
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Mickey's Beach Arete
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
Endless Bummer [HISTORIC]
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Wing (Sit) Stinson Beach > Are You Experienced B…
 22
V8 7B Boulder
Micro Aggression Kim's gym (aka Kym's…
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Toxic Masculinity Kim's gym (aka Kym's…
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sign Language Egg
 81
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Egghead Egg
 105
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
The Bronze Hog Vent 5 > Vent #5
 38
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mogolef Motown
 51
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Courtney Main Rock
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Choss Whisperer Motown
 39
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sex Porpoises Main Rock
 57
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises Emperor Boulder
 41
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Scorpio Rising Main Rock
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Holy Mackerel Main Rock
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mickey's Beach Arete Main Rock
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Endless Bummer [HISTORIC] Endless Bummer Rock
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mickey's Beach »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading