Elevation: 65 ft
GPS: 37.889, -122.633 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 184,285 total · 894/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Tonight
54°F 12°C
Fri
58°F - 52°F 14°C - 11°C
Sat
57°F - 52°F 14°C - 11°C
Sun
56°F - 51°F 13°C - 11°C
Memorial Day
56°F - 52°F 13°C - 11°C
Tue
59°F - 52°F 15°C - 11°C
Wed
60°F - 52°F 16°C - 11°C

Description

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mickey's Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V7 7A+
 5
Little Wing
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Orange Buddha Arete
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Green Eggs and Ham
Sport
Egg
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Coffee and Cigarettes
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 88
Corner Route
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 56
Walkin' a Thin Line
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
Sign Language
Sport
Egg
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 59
Egghead
Sport
Egg
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Courtney
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 37
Hot Tuna
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
This is your Brain on Drugs
Sport
Egg
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
The Emperor's New Clothes
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Holy Mackerel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Little Wing Stinson Beach > Are You Experienced B…
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
Orange Buddha Arete Danger Rock (or Orang…
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
Green Eggs and Ham Egg
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Coffee and Cigarettes Egg
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Corner Route Main Rock
 88
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Walkin' a Thin Line Main Rock
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Sign Language Egg
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Egghead Egg
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Courtney Main Rock
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Tuna Main Rock
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sex Porpoises Main Rock
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
This is your Brain on Drugs Egg
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises Emperor Boulder
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Emperor's New Clothes Emperor Boulder
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Holy Mackerel Main Rock
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mickey's Beach »

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