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Areas in Mickey's Beach

Center Bouldering Rock (or the Beach Boulder) 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Danger Rock (or Orange Buddha Rock) 0 / 0 / 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Egg, The 0 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Emperor Boulder 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Green Monster, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Grey Slab 0 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Rock 0 / 21 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Peeper's Rock 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Stinson Beach 0 / 0 / 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Tennessee Valley Beach 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Way of the Wah (AKA the cave) 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 65 ft
GPS: 37.889, -122.633 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 124,092 total, 659/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mickey's Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V7-8 7B
Orange Buddha Arete
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Eggs and Ham
Sport
Egg
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee and Cigarettes
Sport
Egg
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Route
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Walkin' a Thin Line
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sign Language
Sport
Egg
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Egghead
Sport
Egg
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Courtney
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot Tuna
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shell Shock
Sport
Egg
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sex Porpoises
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
This is your Brain on Drugs
Sport
Egg
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Emperor's New Clothes
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Holy Mackerel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Orange Buddha Arete Danger Rock (or Orange Buddha Rock) V7-8 7B Boulder
Green Eggs and Ham Egg 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Coffee and Cigarettes Egg 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Corner Route Main Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Walkin' a Thin Line Main Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Sign Language Egg 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Egghead Egg 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Courtney Main Rock 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hot Tuna Main Rock 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shell Shock Egg 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sex Porpoises Main Rock 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
This is your Brain on Drugs Egg 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises Emperor Boulder 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Emperor's New Clothes Emperor Boulder 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Holy Mackerel Main Rock 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mickey's Beach »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Looking to climb here in the coming week, possibly also Mt Tam. Anyone who has more experience in these areas willing to come show us around? From the East Coast and pretty confident at Rumney, etc but didn't travel with crash pads, harnesses or ropes. Thanks! May 16, 2017
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
The law came down on me, no dogs at Mickey's. Mar 31, 2016
Darren Carter
Berkeley, CA
Darren Carter   Berkeley, CA
@John - I was curious about that one too. Agree on the V4'ish rating. I enjoyed it quite a bit. Apr 20, 2015
It doesn't seem to be listed on MP or in the Bay Area Rock guide, but there's a super fun sidepull compression problem just around the corner from Grace Face on the uphill side of the rock. It felt V4ish. Here's a picture of the problem if you're trying to find it:


I'd be curious to know the name if anyone knows. Aug 18, 2014
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
ENDLESS BUMMER ROCK
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta! Sep 23, 2013
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight... Jul 5, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean. Sep 25, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies. Jun 22, 2003

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