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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: TR-Russ Bobzien FLA-Marcos Nunez
Page Views: 1,984 total, 26/month
Shared By: EliotAC on Jul 3, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is great for boulderers. It starts out with sidepulls and crimps to a stiff dead point to a flat hold. Crimp like mad on the razor crimps to a three points off dyno/deadpoint to a jug. Rest up for the final boulder problem crimping and side pulling to the obvious undercling where you'll pull on better crimps above the roof to get established on the slab. Follow the crimps on the slab to the top. This climb is essentially a long V7/8 boulder problem. I think most people stick clip the first two bolts.

Location

This is the first line to the right of Pelicans and Walkin a Thin Line. It takes the over hanging face line directly up and over the mini roof meeting back up with Pelicans on the slab above. Rap back down off the double U-loop anchors.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Shares the anchor with Pelicans to its left and Walkin a Thin Line further left.

Photos

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B.Steel  
It's not absolutely necessary to stick clip the first two bolts, but I'd recommend it if you have any doubt in your mind. On all my tries I haven't stick clipped the bolts and on the numerous times I've fallen onto the first bolt it's normally okay if your belayer is attentive (you just run into them quite a bit). However, I have hit the ground once, but you're still only ~8 feet off the ground so it's not awful.

Basically what I'm saying is you can still go for it even if you forgot to bring a stick clip.

Or you can lower off the .10 to the left of it and put two draws up and clip the rope through. Sep 10, 2013
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
EliotAC   Mill Valley
 
A short clip of the types of moves you'll encounter on this cimb...

oceandave.com/Duane-2up3.mpg Jul 4, 2011