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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: John Broussard and Jim Thornburg, 1988
Page Views: 1,966 total · 10/month
Shared By: jared toettcher on Sep 15, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This climb shares its first two bolts with Walkin' a Thin Line (5.10c). After the second bolt, traverse right and climb up to the nearest bolt. Continue up over a flake and bulge to an easier slab climb finish. The crux (and only real 5.12a section) is pretty reachy, and runs between the 3rd and 4th bolts.


6 bolts finishing to a 2 bolt anchor


I don't know who did this route first, but it could well have been Harrison Dekker. He did a route that sounds like its in this area that he called "Dream of White Porsches", and he and Scott Frye were developers of many of the hard routes in this area.

Jim Thornburg would know...Jim? Nov 22, 2002
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
'Dreams of White Porshes' goes closer to 5.13b, and is located a few routes to the right of Pelicans. Nov 27, 2002
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Maybe next time... Moves from the ground are very interesting if you stay away from the easier beginning of Walk a Thin Line. From ground, traverse up and left and then straight up to large incut ledge. A mantle and reach gets you to tiny face holds just over bulge. Where to go here? I didn't see anything up so I traversed right with feet on the large ledge on tiny hand holds and then tried to reach to small right facing corner. Maybe it goes this way. Too steep, tiny, and blown to make a good attempt. IF it doesn't go out this far right, then maybe there is a hold high up hidden. Thus the "Very reachy, footless bulge between 3rd and 4th bolts." comment in the guide. Where I was off to the right was pretty much this too! Upper part looks fun, similar to Walk a Thin Line, thin face climbing. Mar 31, 2003
John (Johnny B) Broussard made the first ascent (tr) of this route in the 1987. He and I did the first leads the following year.

It's desperate! Feb 10, 2006
Vlad S
Vlad S  
Pretty nice route! Lots of tiny feet to choose from at the crux and your choice will make the V5 crux either desperate or completely impossible. Of course, if you have mutant reach all that doesn't matter. The upper section of 5.10+ edging is some of the most enjoyable climbing at Mickey's. This route is a step up from Sex Porpoises in terms of difficulty. Jul 20, 2015
Latvian climber
Latvian climber  
Felt like I needed to give it some love and bump up the star rating a bit, haha. The crux is pretty long and sustained and the tiny holds on it are the crispest/least greasy holds I've felt at Mickey's yet. I really like this climb.

The runout slab portion after the crux flows extremely well on small, but very frictiony holds. Requires you to keep your cool after pulling through the hard crux. Aug 7, 2016
Nasty crux! Oct 18, 2016
This is the worst route at Main Rock! Jan 1, 2017

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