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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jeff Follet, 1996
Page Views: 3,883 total, 22/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 17, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the West (Oceanside) face, this is the route under the lower and diagonally facing roof in the center of the wall that has bolts on the roof.

Climb to and then use the crack under the roof using all the feet you can find, hanging on to the overhung rock.

Climbing is pumpy, and there are two cruxes, clipping the third bolt and clipping the top anchors.

Also note that the 'bad bolts' that older books refer to have been replaced. The new ones work great.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

obiss
  5.11d
obiss  
  5.11d
If you're hanging your own draws this isn't relevant, but if you're hanging for your own redpoint or for someone else, an extended draw for the 3rd bolt is a good idea to prevent a nasty swinging fall if you bail trying to clip there. Oct 18, 2016
Caliza
  5.11d
Caliza  
  5.11d
All these years I did this the hard way not knowing there was a giant foot out on the left side of the roof on the arete at the crux that people use for a drop knee. Didn't use the drop knee but did use the foot to lieback the crux, 3rd bolt. This foot makes the crux not even cruxy. Personally I think it's 11c, but I like crimps and liebacks so this could just be playing to me strengths. Aug 2, 2016
Alex Motal  
 
Fun route, with good movement (super cool drop knee's). Clipping the chains is a bit tricky. Watch out for crabs! Jun 14, 2015
Caliza
  5.11d
Caliza  
  5.11d
Good route, this has become the Mickey's beach warm up. :) Mar 22, 2013
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
super fun movements in a great setting, only had one go and sat at the crux and then the sun went down, need to come back soon - mickey's is so fun! Nov 15, 2011
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.12a
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.12a
This route makes a good "first .12" Oct 4, 2009