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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Eric Brand, Jeff Dopp mid 1980's
Page Views: 4,814 total, 26/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is located on the northwest side of main rock at Mickey's Beach, sitting one route right of the main corner route (5.10b) that always seems to have a top rope on it.

Start on a slab, head up over a vertical corner and finish on some barely featured slab climbing.

This has a serious rating because it's about 20 vertical feet from the last bolt to the top anchor, and there aren't too many holds in the top section. This makes some people chicken out and head to the right to Pelicans (.12a), which has simpler slab climbing on the top, though either way is still scary.

Protection

4 (or 5 if you cheat and cut right instead of going to the top) bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
 
This is a really fun climb, though the desperate slab up top is a bit intimidating. I was unsure why this had an R rating until I read the description again- Bay Area Rock shows the line as using the 12a bolt Jul 31, 2017
obiss
  5.10b/c PG13
obiss  
  5.10b/c PG13
DO NOT toprope directly off the anchors. They were getting a bit worn last I was there - they're still ok and let's keep it that way. Oct 18, 2016
Heather Whatever
Bishop, CA
Heather Whatever   Bishop, CA
I think the top is thin & scary & heady as hell! The guidebook for the area says 10b PG, & I disagree! 10c, maybe not R & still PG, but 10c for sure. Nov 7, 2015
Julian Bobilev
  5.10c R
Julian Bobilev  
  5.10c R
I think it's actually easier to go straight up as opposed to cutting slightly right and clipping the off-route Pelicans bolt. Feels more fluid/like a better line, too. Sep 6, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I'd say there are two different cruxes: 1) the initial traverse on some greasy footholds, and 2) the first move off the last bolt. Then there's the mental crux of continuing up a slightly featured slab to the anchors WAY above the last bolt! I'd agree with Paul that this is one of the most satisfying leads. I'm hesitant whether it's a 5.10B or 10C. I guess in the tricky moves/mental aspect sense, it is a 10C. Aug 1, 2006
Jeff Dopp
Goodlettsville, TN
Jeff Dopp   Goodlettsville, TN
Eric Brand and I did the first accent in the mid 80s. It's a sweet route when it's not too slimey. May 4, 2006
L. Hamilton
  5.10b
L. Hamilton  
  5.10b
A nice moderate lead. Mar 30, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
I came back to lead this and was pleasantly surprised that I didn't freak out! Having toproped it a month ago, I knew what to expect. Luckily the harder moves are down closer to the last bolt. The upper moves to get to the anchors are not as difficult and you just have to keep cool. This is one great route and a very satifying lead! May 12, 2003
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
A very fun route! It would be a bold lead getting to the anchors as your feet would be about 6-8' above the last bolt on pretty hard, thin, moves. Moves do get easier the higher you go though. At the ground, I assume you go up just right of the Corner Route. About 5.9. There is a bolt further down and right but this might be for Pelicans only. Very good rock great route! Mar 31, 2003