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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg 1995 (Harrison Dekker TR 1988)
Page Views: 288 total, 22/month
Shared By: Vlad S on Nov 14, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pretty nice route if you can manage to find it in dry condition. Since it starts on the lowest point on the rock, this one is very tide dependent and the starting holds are often damp. Either stick clip the high first bolt or lower from Sex Porpoises to preclip it. Awkward crux at the first bolt is followed by a great knee-bar rest and a huge deadpoint huck caps off the difficulties between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. 5.11+ jugs take you to the top through the last two bolts shared with S.P.

Look for a low surf day with tide level below 1 ft and sun to dry out the holds from spray and you'll have fun on it. Otherwise, not even worth trying it.

Location

SW corner of the rock starting in the water most days

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

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