Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 519 total · 17/month
Shared By: Caliza Rodriguez on Jun 11, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The most tide dependent route at Main Rock along with Courtney and a good warm up on the south/west side. Climbs Courtney for the first five bolt; then instead of continuing up Courtney, traverse right around the arete and finish on Sex Porpoises for the last two bolts.

Location

Starts on Courtney.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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obiss
  5.11d
obiss  
  5.11d
The end can be a bit baffling if you go the "wrong" way... Oct 18, 2016
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Third glue-in bolt can now spin if you mess with it... which seems a bit worrisome. Fall down, not out? Good news is it protects the easiest part of the climb. Jul 17, 2017
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
There's nothing wrong with the spinning bolts. The pull out strength is from the threads/rings on the bolt, not the glue-metal adhesion. Oct 22, 2018
slim    
how do you know it isn't a lack of glue-rock adhesion that is allowing the bolt to spin? wouldn't that be worrisome? (hint: yes, it would be - any time a bolt is spinning it is worrisome...) Oct 23, 2018
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.11c/d
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.11c/d
Glue-ins should not move at all, never. That is the point of glue-ins, means the bond between the epoxy, metal and/or rock has been compromised. The heads of the bolts should have been partially recessed into the rock to reinforce them like they are on Sharky’s Machine, aka Moby Dick. The adhesion of the glue is supposed to hold the bolt solid, and the glue-ins on Nancy don’t have threads like regular bolts. Most likely the torque force from pendular falls has caused the expoxy to start breaking. Oct 23, 2018