[Hide Comment] The end can be a bit baffling if you go the "wrong" way... Oct 18, 2016

[Hide Comment] Third glue-in bolt can now spin if you mess with it... which seems a bit worrisome. Fall down, not out? Good news is it protects the easiest part of the climb. Jul 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] There's nothing wrong with these spinning bolts. The pull out strength is from the threads on the bolt, not the glue-metal adhesion.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Oct 22, 2018

[Hide Comment] how do you know it isn't a lack of glue-rock adhesion that is allowing the bolt to spin? wouldn't that be worrisome? (hint: yes, it would be - any time a bolt is spinning it is worrisome...) Oct 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] Glue-ins should not move at all, never. That is the point of glue-ins, means the bond between the epoxy, metal and/or rock has been compromised. The heads of the bolts should have been partially recessed into the rock to reinforce them like they are on Sharky’s Machine, aka Moby Dick. The adhesion of the glue is supposed to hold the bolt solid, and the glue-ins on Nancy don’t have threads like regular bolts. Most likely the torque force from pendular falls has caused the expoxy to start breaking. Oct 23, 2018

[Hide Comment] Caliza there are different types of glue in bolts. According to the manufacturer of the TI bolts found on Nancy, it's ok if they spin. Disconcerting...absolutely, but it's not accurate to say this type of bolt should never spin. Jun 1, 2019

[Hide Comment] Route description is slightly off: shares first 4 bolts with Courtney, the 5th bolt comes just about at the end of the traverse before turning the arête onto SP. There are two bolts to the left once joining up with SP about 3 ft apart: an expansion bolt lower down that is easier to clip or a glue-in higher up that you may as well skip and go for the chains. Apr 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] Early versions of the bolt (like the ones installed here) don't have a flat tip. That was added in response to these spinning.

In the SuperTopo thread I linked above they tested a fully spinning bolt and it broke before the glue failed. Sep 5, 2022

[Hide Comment] I talked to Sika and Redhead a couple years back, they both said inserts in epoxy should not have any movement. Also a good practice to notch the bolts to help prevent with movement. Will the system itself fail, probably not, but sounds like a manufacturer flaw on the bolt not having a design that prevents it from moving within the hole/epoxy. Sep 5, 2022