Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Ken Ariza
Page Views: 3,126 total · 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a classic, difficult Mickey's beach climb. Climb just right of the Mickey's Beach Arete (5.13b), up the leftmost bolt line on the side of the rock facing straight out towards the ocean. This route has a little of everything. Start on an approximately 5.12a crimpy section, climb a flake, have fun with a few underclings, enjoy a few tiny crimps, and then stick big moves onto slopers until a fun finishing move.

As you're climbing this overhung route, you may think to yourself, "There are no holds ANYWHERE!" You're mostly right. Tough sections are until the first bolt and from the third bolt up, with the crux lying between the 3rd and 6th bolts. Footwork is key.

Tips:To set a toprope for this climb, walk on top of the Main Rock to the side facing the ocean and rappell from the anchor located there. As you're rappelling, descend down and right (facing the rock) about 15 ft. You will be facing a 2-ring anchor. This is the anchor to set for this climb.

The section until the first bolt warrants the climb's "serious" rating, as it involves a dangerous fall either on toprope or lead. Climbing to the first bolt is tough and it's very possible to fall on the sharp corner of the belayer's rock.

The belayer may get a little wet as high tide approaches; try to do this climb when the water level is low.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.

Photos