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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Ken Ariza
Page Views: 2,787 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a classic, difficult Mickey's beach climb. Climb just right of the Mickey's Beach Arete (5.13b), up the leftmost bolt line on the side of the rock facing straight out towards the ocean. This route has a little of everything. Start on an approximately 5.12a crimpy section, climb a flake, have fun with a few underclings, enjoy a few tiny crimps, and then stick big moves onto slopers until a fun finishing move.

As you're climbing this overhung route, you may think to yourself, "There are no holds ANYWHERE!" You're mostly right. Tough sections are until the first bolt and from the third bolt up, with the crux lying between the 3rd and 6th bolts. Footwork is key.

Tips:To set a toprope for this climb, walk on top of the Main Rock to the side facing the ocean and rappell from the anchor located there. As you're rappelling, descend down and right (facing the rock) about 15 ft. You will be facing a 2-ring anchor. This is the anchor to set for this climb.

The section until the first bolt warrants the climb's "serious" rating, as it involves a dangerous fall either on toprope or lead. Climbing to the first bolt is tough and it's very possible to fall on the sharp corner of the belayer's rock.

The belayer may get a little wet as high tide approaches; try to do this climb when the water level is low.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.

Photos

obiss
  5.13-
obiss  
  5.13-
This climb is a little different than any other Mickey's climbing - it's all power endurance at the top after the midpoint crux. I think it could also use a glue in bolt replacement effort for at least the bolts around the crux? Possibly my favorite route out there. Oct 18, 2016
cool route with a sustained upper section after a moderate beginning. the move to the anchors could cause serious problems. there's a link from the start of Mutiny into the middle crux of Naked and Disfigured. Aug 30, 2012
drunkenmaster
santa rosa, cali
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
My good friend Ken Ariza did first ascent of Naked and Disfigured after the huge blocks that had the old beach crack (5.12A) and a couple other climbs on them fell off into the ocean during a winter storm! Ken had to remove refrigerator size pieces of loose rock that were left precariously dangling there after the incident just to clean the route before he could start trying it.Hats off to Kenny! Oct 13, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
Or, if you're prepared, you can stick clip the first bolt!

If you're going to top rope this climb, bring draws and clip them as you rappell down fromthe top anchor unless you want to start over again. The overhang and lack of good holdswill make it impossible to get back on route in a fall.

Also, the last move is HARD so you're not done until you're done.

My tip: Man was given an opposable thumb for a reason. Use it! Jun 24, 2003