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Routes in Main Rock

Big Tuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Corner Route S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Courtney S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dreams of White Porsches S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Holy Mackerel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Left Slab S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Megalodon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mickey's Beach Arete S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Motion In The Ocean S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mutiny S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Nancy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pelicans S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sex Porpoises S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sharky's Machine TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Squid Vicious S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Wet Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1980s
Page Views: 311 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ian J Walters on Nov 12, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Gidget shares the first and last bolts of Motion in the Ocean, taking the right bolt line. After a mild (though somewhat runout) beginning, find a great midway rest below a bulge. After this, a strenuous clip and powerful off-balance sequence lead straight into the final crux of Motion. On the whole a fantastic route that is significantly more demanding than Motion, and tons of fun!!

Location

On the ocean side of the main rock, just to the right of Motion in the Ocean.

Protection

5 u-bolts to two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Vlad S
  5.12d
Vlad S  
  5.12d
Jimi, I agree - it would have been better to leave the left variation as a TR. The bolting is mostly confusing down low. At the crux it feels more like a personal preference which way to go and which of the two bolts to clip. Going left is hard because you have to get a very high left foot from small holds that are both facing left (most of your weight is on the left foot). Going right I get the R hand gastone that is big and featureless, but then stall out because I'm completely extended and can't move. I can see it being easier if you are taller, but not for me... Dec 15, 2015
Vlad! Go straight up dude!

The crux on this is hard and initially befuddling. But it's a really cool move and its easier than going left onto the other route, and then back onto Gidget.. The bolts will all make sense if you just go straight up. I wish the route to the left was left as a top-rope. It's fun too, but for sure it causes some confusion now that it's bolted. Dec 15, 2015
Vlad S
  5.12d
Vlad S  
  5.12d
The bolting on this route is very confusing complicated by the squeeze variation on the left (Ocean Monster). I ended up using 6 bolts. 3rd one being almost right next to and directly right of the 2nd one (which is probably not original), strangely followed by a small runout. Then at the crux below the roof you can clip 5th bolt either to your left or right. Jimi originally climbed it going right, but for my height I found going left more logical. It seems to me (in retrospect) that having a single bolt in between (and instead of) the two would have protected the moves really well no matter what beta you choose. In the end there is only one hold that is not used for either sequence, so it's more of a personal preference rather than a different variation. Nov 23, 2015