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Routes in The Egg

Coffee and Cigarettes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egg Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egghead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junglework TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shell Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Language S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunnyside Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is your Brain on Drugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Ariza
Page Views: 6,840 total · 36/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Find this route on the far right side of the north face of the rock. It can be tide dependant for the belay stance, though standing on the prominent rock behind the climb will help in all but the highest of tides. An interesting balancy route with great ocean views. Near the top avoid the temptation of heading way right, as the rock there is quite loose.

Protection

8 bolts to a bolt bolt top anchor
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
I brought a wrench up with me this past Saturday to tighten that notorious 6th bolt and failed to fix it-- the bolt itself is spinning (which is terrifying, as I took a decent fall on it), though the nut over the hanger is quite secure. Agree with Ysbrand-- many of the bolts on this climb should be replaced. Jan 29, 2018
Ysbrand Nusse
San Francisco, CA
Ysbrand Nusse   San Francisco, CA
On Jan 28, 2018, we found the shaft of the crux 6th bolt very loose - I could flex it by hand and backed off. Many of the other hangers were loose as well. This route is starting to be a bit scary, and could really use some glue-ins. Jan 28, 2018
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
Best route on The Egg, in my opinion (I can't do the 12s). Thought it was a 10c getting on, glad I didn't look at the updated beta to sow doubt in my mind. The crux is distinct, well-protected right at the 6th bolt (which you can clip at a reach from a decent jug below it)-- go for it!

Moving right onto the arete there was definitely the most difficult move. Exposure over the crashing ocean waves was sublime, and we had a show of dolphins and seals just beyond the rocks to boot. Not too bad. Aug 13, 2017
Bolt at the crux spins freely and hangs out of the wall a half inch as of 7-22-2017. Great route despite that. Felt 11a/b at worst. Jul 24, 2017
Maxwell Dergosits
San Francisco
Maxwell Dergosits   San Francisco
I was there yesterday and some climbers said they broke off another hold! Jul 16, 2017
Nicholas L.
Raleigh, NC
  5.11-
Nicholas L.   Raleigh, NC
  5.11-
Going to add another vote to the "this felt like an 11" bandwagon. Great route though and amazing setting. Aug 30, 2013
Tom B.
Lodi, CA
  5.10c PG13
Tom B.   Lodi, CA
  5.10c PG13
I think it was the 6th bolt that was rusty and loose on this route. High up enough where you can fall have it pop and still be ok, but it's also right at the crux and there's a runout (relative to the rest of the route) above it.

Still an awesome route. May 13, 2013
David Friend
  5.11a
David Friend  
  5.11a
Yes, a key chip for the left hand has broken, and moving up to the right after clipping the sixth bolt feels like 5.11a/b (height dependent). It's a one move crux, and rest of climb is still 5.10-fun! Pull on the draw if near your limit. Oct 29, 2011
Hein
  5.11a
Hein  
  5.11a
Have to concur with the route being a bit tricky around the 6th bolt.

It seemed like a good idea to have the belayer anchored to the first bolt as well (it's easily reachable from the belay rock). Aug 8, 2011
Iv'e been going back down here a bit and have forgotten how good some of this stuff is. A key hold has broken at the crux by the 6th? bolt and this route is easily 5.10d/5.11a now. looks like there might be more breakage at some point as the edge at the end of the difficulties a bit hollow..... Jul 14, 2011
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
Just hit this up yesterday and It def feels like a rock is missing for the 10c rating. You can see newer rock texture/color right at the place where one would expect a hold to be.

Still doable (and probably more fun now) but requires much thinner edging and smearing and balance work than is the character of the rest of the climb. Dec 27, 2009
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
EliotAC   Mill Valley
 
FA was Ken Ariza Aug 31, 2009
Ami Bhatt
  5.10c
Ami Bhatt  
  5.10c
This is a classic California-postcard climb. The setting is phenomenal (just over the Pacific Ocean - literally) and the route is great as long as you stay off the area just past the right side arete (it's quite crumbly). Dec 5, 2004
Risley  
This route humbled me. Albiet, I am relatively inexperienced, with time, I can usually make it up most 5 10's.Not this one. What a blast however, the waves crashing below my feet the sun setting in the West and the solid rock beneath my aching fingers all made for a spectacular experience. Who knew such killer climbing was in our backyard. I went wit my Friend Paul who led the route and he made it up easily as I lazil belayed him from below. the first part was trickeier than I had anticpated and was perhaps what drained me of my stregnth to continue. May 23, 2003
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
We lucked out and had gorgeous weather with a wonderful sunset! This route is fantastic! Even the very first move getting both feet on the wall was interesting! Moving to the right over the crashing waves makes this route fun and exhilarating! It doesn't look that steep up around the 4th bolt but it is! I blew out first try and had to give it a strong second attempt to get past this crux. I'll be posting some photos soon! May 22, 2003
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
On a windy day, a more feathery climber (aron) may get blown around on the balancy moves above the sea. Aug 27, 2002

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