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Routes in The Egg

Coffee and Cigarettes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egg Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egghead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junglework TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shell Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Language S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunnyside Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is your Brain on Drugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Description

It does look like and egg. 5.10 - 5.12 Sport routes on two sides, and some easier (5.7 - 5.9?) top ropeable slab climbs on the back (North?) side. It's an egg, it sits right on the beach so when there's sun, you'll be in the sun on one side of the rock. When there's fog, or rain, you're going to be exposed and cold.

Rock is solid serpentine and greywacke that's fairly easy on the fingers.

Currently, I believe this is part of the state parks system, so there aren't any access issues, other than that the park closes at sunset.

If you're going to climb the egg, and up for a challenge, you should try egghead, which is a "5.11b" that could easliy go for 5.12a other places in the area.

The climbs on the beta photo below are as follows:

1) Egghead (5.11b)
2) Jungle Work (5.12a t.r.)
3) This is your Brain on Drugs (5.12c)
4) Sign Language (5.10c)

Getting There

There are two recommended ways to get to the egg:

The first is pretty burny on the knees and feet.Time: 10 - 15 minutes down, 15 - 20 up.From the main parking lot, get back in your car, and drive back down the coast about 1/2 a mile to a pullout. You can spot the egg from the road at this pullout. The pullout is located about halfway between the main parking lot and the Steep Ravine cabins entrance. It's also the only prominent pullout that doesn't have a no parking sign on it. From a trail that starts on the right side of the pullout head down towards the beach. Once you reach the beach, head left until you reach the egg. See the photos of the egg and the view from the parking lot.

The second approach will take a little longer, but if you're injured, tired or just plain lazy this is the route for you.Time: Unknown.Park at the gate for the Steep Ravine Cabins, and head down the paved trail. Once you get to the main campground area, head right along the coast about 100 yards until you get to the egg.

10 Total Climbs

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Eric MC
Oakland, CA
Eric MC   Oakland, CA
Paved approach is mellow and easy, recommended. Nov 4, 2016
Max McKinnon
San Jose, CA
Max McKinnon   San Jose, CA
Recommend taking the twice as long paved trail. I went directly down and when I grabbed a boulder for support, a HUGE 100lb+ piece came rolling off, and despite being loaded with gear, I barely avoided losing a toe. I came away with just scratches on my shin and hands from getting out of the way in the rough terrain. It would probably be fine without gear, but with gear, it was too treacherous.

Fun little climbing area. Recommend stick clipping the first bolt. Sep 13, 2015
CrisS  
Here's the GPS to plug into google: 37.885731,-122.629652 Jan 16, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Definitely wouldn't advise going from Main Rock directly to the Egg. The ridgeline is crumbly with nasty falls, and the even the beach approach forces you to scale crumbly rocks with backpacks on. Somebody (He Man?) told us it was the best way. No way! Go through the campgrounds or the other approach and save your nervous energy for the climbs! Sep 13, 2005

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