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Routes in Motown
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Anzac Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Choss Whisperer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gift, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Michaelangemo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mogolef S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mogoright S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Scotty's Melons S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whale If Yer Scared S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Whale If Yer Scared Direct (Ahab Direct) S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 37.87891, -122.61922 |
| FA: | Jim Thornburg, Matt Eiser, Jordy Morgan, 2021 |
| Page Views: | 2,281 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Chris B on Oct 12, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Climb up and around either the left or right side of the lower bulge, then keep going onto all the way to the top of the ramp/broken pillar. Clip the first bolt on the face then use tricky footwork to climb past the first couple bolts to some good left-facing edges. Get a good rest then make a few tricky moves past a small overlap up high (crux). At this overlap, the route heads slightly left to join the top of Michaelangemo and easier climbing above. Climb past a pair of old bolts at the lip to reach the current anchor, which is 8 ft higher on the slab above.
For those who go to the right around the lower bulge: Back cleaning the first two bolts on the bulge is helpful for rope drag. And you can clip the first face bolt on Choss Whisperer (4th overall) and then back clean it to reduce rope drag.
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