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Mickey's Beach

California > San Francisco Bay Area

Description

Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no longer exists due to it falling into the Pacific, photo: Bob Horan Collection
[Hide Photo] Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no longer exists due to it falling into the Pacific, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach Crack, which no longer exsists because its right side fell into the Pacific, photo: Bob Horan Collection
[Hide Photo] Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach Crack, which no longer exsists because its right side fell into the Pacific, photo: Bob Horan Collection
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
[Hide Photo] Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Way of the Wah
[Hide Photo] Way of the Wah
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home to Endless Bummer 13b, and Surf Safari 14a. Usually fixed. Bring draws. It's windy.
[Hide Photo] Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home to Endless Bummer 13b, and Surf Safari 14a. Usually fixed. Bring draws. It's windy.
more rock changes at Mickey's - A big chunk of rock, including the starting block for Zen Garden and the ArĂȘte clime (not sure of the name), has fallen off. It may also alter foot beta for Grace Face on the other side.
[Hide Photo] more rock changes at Mickey's - A big chunk of rock, including the starting block for Zen Garden and the ArĂȘte clime (not sure of the name), has fallen off. It may also alter foot beta for Grac…
Stinson Beach
[Hide Photo] Stinson Beach
The big bouldering rock fell apart.  The V9 is no more and I think one of the face climbs is affected.
[Hide Photo] The big bouldering rock fell apart. The V9 is no more and I think one of the face climbs is affected.
Bouldering at Mickeys.
[Hide Photo] Bouldering at Mickeys.
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse<br>
photo: Telly Fry
[Hide Photo] Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Telly Fry

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies. Jun 22, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean. Sep 25, 2003
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight... Jul 5, 2008
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] ENDLESS BUMMER ROCK
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta! Sep 23, 2013
[Hide Comment] It doesn't seem to be listed on MP or in the Bay Area Rock guide, but there's a super fun sidepull compression problem just around the corner from Grace Face on the uphill side of the rock. It felt V4ish. Here's a picture of the problem if you're trying to find it:


I'd be curious to know the name if anyone knows. Aug 18, 2014
Darren Carter
Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] @John - I was curious about that one too. Agree on the V4'ish rating. I enjoyed it quite a bit. Apr 20, 2015
desbien
seattle,wa
[Hide Comment] The law came down on me, no dogs at Mickey's. Mar 31, 2016
[Hide Comment] Looking to climb here in the coming week, possibly also Mt Tam. Anyone who has more experience in these areas willing to come show us around? From the East Coast and pretty confident at Rumney, etc but didn't travel with crash pads, harnesses or ropes. Thanks! May 16, 2017
Samuel Rosenstein
Newton, MA
[Hide Comment] The "parking lot" that people usually park in is now under construction and the road is now a single lane. The path from the bluffs still exists, so the options are:
- Park a little farther down the road, walk up to the construction, hop the fence, then walk down the trail.
- Park at Stinson beach and walk along the shore to Mickey's.
We walked from Stinson beach a few hours after low tide and got stuck on some spires - others were able to get there during low tide exactly. We then walked out along the trail, then down the road to Stinson Beach.
Climbs are beautiful, albeit a little slippery. Apr 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] The parking lot is now re-opened (not sure of the exact time/date this happened) so you can park there and walk down the main trail as previously. May 18, 2019
Chris Terry
San Jose CA
[Hide Comment] Beware of the campground host! He said no climbing allowed! I just about crapped my pants laughing, and went a different way (the horrible way) to Egghead/ the egg. Got some awesome soloing in on the slab :) May 26, 2019
Ben Johnson
Mill Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] Found a non-rated quick-link on the anchors of the corner route. Removed it, with the worry others would use it. If it is your quick-link, you can contact me and we can arrange for it to be given back.

Thanks! 2 days ago