Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg?
Page Views: 6,381 total · 32/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route is the leftmost route on the north face of the rock. It can be seen from the downhill approach.

This is a TOUGH "5.11b". Clip the 1st bolt before you get off the ground or you'll really be sorry. Finding the non-existant feet on the bottom part of the route is what makes this tough, though if you're flexable there's another (scary) option. This is a 5.11b after you get to the second bolt, where the climbing gets searchy, reachy, and interesting. The lieback at the top is great fun if you're not too pumped from the lower sections of the route.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

I agree - the start is pretty harsh for 5.11b, but I found the climb eases up a lot until the arrete at the top. Maybe I just need work on my arrete technique. Regardless, it's a great climb, but stiff for the grade. Sep 11, 2002
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
WOW! What can I say? This is an incredible route! I never thought I had a chance at it after 4 attempts to get off the ground. I would be interested to hear how others do this lower move. My fingers were getting raw from hanging on the tiny sharp finger holds trying to get to the second bolt. I decided I would try yet another idea, saying "this is my last try" for the third time! I made the moves and was able to stand up, just in balance, with small but decent holds. Clipping the second bolt was a little iffy but once clipped you are pretty safe and in good shape. The rest of the climb is just absolute FUN! Getting on the ramp was a little awkward and moving up the face using the arete was classic. I just had enough steam to pop for the one good bucket hold on the arete just prior to the anchors. What a wonderful route! I will go back and do it again. Doing this route right after doing Sign Language adds up to two fantastic pitches! Anyone know how the route to the right compares to Egghead? It, too, looks fantastic! May 22, 2003
Uh, beta for the start? Do a big move to the bulge thing on the right for a layback? Not 11 minus. V4/5?

This is a dangerous start to clip the second bolt; even with the first bolt clipped to start, there's deck potential or a bad tangle with your belayer if you blow it for the second clip. Next time, I'm going to stick clip the second bolt to work out the moves.

BTW: what's up with these eye bolts around Mickey's?

How old are they? Anyone want to replace with Fixe hangars and add Fixes with chains + more convenient toprope anchors (not over the lip and shared anchors)? Does this rock need a double hole eye bolt? Will single-hole Fixe's work?

I think its pretty cool, tho, at Mickey's that you have to top out (bouldering style) to finish the routes on lead: a unique experience. And that its possible to not clip the anchor, untie and walk off the back on lead: sick, guy.

A Mickeys ethic?: don't clip the anchor, untie and walk down. Sep 25, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
I agree with Wilcher that you could get hurt pretty badly if you fall while clipping the second bolt! Using double ropes would help here. I have done the initial moves three different ways. The first success was moving straight up with a loooong reach off the obvious starting holds. Very iffy once standing as you need to move left a move on thin hand holds to get to second bolt! The second way was as you mention Wilcher. Off the starting holds, throw a right foot high to the right on a good hold and reach up and right around the slight arete to a layback hold. Once standing it is still a bit scary moving left to be able to reach the bolt. The third way was actually going out left once you get on the rock. Reach up and over left hand with right hand and then reach way directly left with left hand to good sideways hold. Feet are on very small holds. Reach up with right hand to tiny but secure hold to pull to standing position. Once standing you can clip the second bolt. Falling anywhere on any of these variations could be serious as you would land, probably on your butt, on the pointy rock below. Now, after all that, I witnessed a young guy who climbed the crux the third description above and actually clipped the second bolt hanging on the tiny, secure hold. This way his body remained low nearer the first bolt. I could never hang there and clip. I don't think this gives away the crux as even with the options it's still hard and scary. If you do get up there, keep your head getting to and clipping the second bolt! Once you get over the second bolt, the rest of the climb up to the arete and climbing the arete is pure fun! Hard still, but very fun! Sep 27, 2005
I went to do this route about a month ago and found that the hillside had eroded allowing a large boulder to roll down and block the infamous start. The boulder also makes the first couple clips pretty scary as it is definitely possible that you would land on it if you fell. It still makes a fun toprope though. Jul 22, 2006
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Above comment is correct. It was also that way about a month ago when I last visited. You can still do the original start, but it's like adding a sit-down start since you'll be about even with that boulder. First bolt makes absolutely no sense, but second should protect all the hard moves. After that it's not too bad to the third (second) bolt, which was a groundfall if you didn't get it in the first place. Aug 1, 2006
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Haven't been here in awhile but I was wondering if the boulder that slid down could be somehow moved and slid lower. I know it's huge but maybe with a little digging and a crowbar, it could be maneuvered. Is this even ethical? Just throwing it out there. I really enjoyed working the original first moves... May 15, 2009
Mill Valley
EliotAC   Mill Valley
I think the FA was Jim Thornburg Aug 31, 2009
DayJohnson   AZ
Great climb! Followed on top rope after belaying a very talented friend. The huge boulder still sits at the base of the climb, making the first bolt irrelevant, and blocking the original start. This is still a great line though. Jan 3, 2013
I added a bolt a few months back between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. What used to be just a spooky run-out had become a potential ground-fall because the ground is about 5 feet higher than it used to be due to the rock and dirt slide.

The route is now a pretty safe lead and no longer warrants an R rating. It could still be a PG perhaps because of the run-out between the 4th and 5th bolts.

The old crux is gone (it was the first few moves). The entire route is maybe 11a or b now. Jan 12, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Jim, Thanks for the route maintenance. Aug 19, 2013
If you lead the route make sure your belayer is heavier or at least same weight as you. If you fall at the last clip - you will potentially hit the ledge.
Climb on and be safe! Jun 30, 2016
Tomer Grossman
Tomer Grossman  
Very nice route. If you clip the second bolt from the ground, the route felt very safe to me, definitely doesn't deserve an R rating. Dec 3, 2016
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.11b PG13
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.11b PG13
As mentioned above, the route is pretty safe now, although I can confirm that it's at least PG.

Even with a super tight belay and lightning reflexes blowing a clip of the ?5th? bolt (the second bolt above the big ledge) would put you in danger of hitting the ledge. My partner broke an ankle here, so be careful!

In either case, definitely my favorite bay area climb at the grade! Jun 9, 2017
Brooks Andrew
Shenandoah Junction, WV
Brooks Andrew   Shenandoah Junction, WV
One of the anchor bolts is rusty and spinning and could definitely be replaced. Jun 5, 2018
There is a new titanium anchor now. Jul 29, 2018
noah dailey
Mill Valley, CA
noah dailey   Mill Valley, CA
as of today the big donut rap ring is not sitting nicely at the base of the metal extenders coming from the bolts. I think a wrench is needed to fix this. This is a fairly recent issue, as I was there a week or two prior and did not have this issue. To get off without leaving a biner I lowered off of the extender of the right bolt. Aug 20, 2018