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Routes in The Egg

Coffee and Cigarettes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egg Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egghead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junglework TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shell Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Language S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunnyside Up S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is your Brain on Drugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kenny Ariza, 1999
Page Views: 3,170 total, 18/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 1, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is your Brain on Drugs starts just right of the Egghead start and may even use holds from Egghead (and visa versa) depending on how you do the moves. From second bolt move right using tiny crimper to a small but good hold that you can match on. Continue right on very small hand and foot holds and up to small bulge. Go over bulge, moving up and left on small holds continuing up to anchors. This route requires strong fingers and good footwork and is very continuous with several cruxes.


6 or 7 bolts finishing to a two bolt anchor just below the lip at the top. Be careful if setting up toprope!


Tried this for the first time today on toprope, felt insanely hard. The crux getting over the bulge to the point where you feel more or less secure on the head wall felt at least solid/hard V6. I had to use a crimp near Sign Language but that I'm sure is used necessary for Sign Language. Without it to me the crux feels like it'd be V7. In my brain you're on drugs if you think this 12b or 12c. At a minimum this thing feels 12d if not harder. With that said, the climbing above the bulge is the best, sustained climbing I've done at Mickey's Beach. Beautiful line. Jul 29, 2017
Huh. Maybe it's just that I'm bad on my feet, or the post-holiday love-handles I earned (or both), but it certainly felt closer to .13a. In my head, I'm trying to place its grade by comparing it to other hard climbing in the area with similar steepness/size of holds/insecurity--like the crux of Pelicans, the lip moves on Holy Mackerel, and the upper portion of Mutiny, which go at 12b, 13a and 13a/b (I think), and the lower section of this route certainly falls closer to that upper bit on Mutiny in terms of style and difficulty. To me it feels even a touch harder.

In any case, even though they're completely different routes, I think calling This Is Your Brain on Drugs the same grade as Sex Porpoises is kind of bananas. I'd really love to go out there with Ken A or Jim T to compare their past experiences with the condition of the route presently. It's an absolutely unique, killer route and worth working on. Jan 4, 2017
I've never been on it but Franckie Ocasio once told me he did it and that it felt more like a Yosemite 5.13a. I've looked at it from the ground and it looks blank like a sheet of drywall. Dec 31, 2016
Friends. So at this point I've done every route at the main rock except for Insomnia & Sturgeon, and every route on the egg except for this and the hard TR. I took 1.5 hours to work it today in great conditions, and got up it on TR with 1 fall and extreme effort (for me). There is no way it's .12c. Have things broken over time? Can I get a witness? Dec 31, 2016
Has someone sent this one recently? I am wondering if its still a 12c

A year ago, a bit out of shape, I could get all the moves and felt it was a really hard 12c (if 12c)... today I tried again, with a lot more training and outdoors, and I couldn't get on top of the "roof" part (I thought the crux was the blank face, but I could get it very fast today, and then got stuck on the roof, hanging from the very sharp kind of crimp after the big sloper above the roof). It really felt harder than 12c, unless there is some magic beta for the roof, or I am doing something wrong... I am basically trying to go up on the right side of the "roof" bolt. Aug 14, 2016
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Thanks for the tip KP! Been awhile (obviously) since I've looked here. And now probably have no chance at this route :) . But next time out I'll give it a go! Cheers! Paul Nov 21, 2015
First Ascent of Brain was done in '95/'96. You are a body length too high in the photo above for the traverse moves. Stay low on foot smears and lean off of a left hand sidepull crimp until you can ease over enough to latch the finger jug. Then the brain moves..... Jul 13, 2011
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
P.S. Forgot to add... The route description in the photo shows this route ending at the Sign Language anchors. This is not the case. There are separate anchors for this climb which add a good couple of hard moves to reach! Aug 7, 2003
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
I added this route because it is a great route and should be on this site!

Very continuous hard climbing the whole way mostly on very small holds. There may be only 2 or 3 holds larger than 1/2 first knuckle on the whole route! Now the confession... Although I have done all moves on the climb, it was not done with less than 1/2 dozen falls and short hangs. Because I actually got up the thing, I think the route may be 5.12b but without a single 5.12b move on it. Many, many, very hard 11 moves throughout the climb. To lead this clean will be my goal for the year and will certainly be a very satisfying accomplishment. I would certainly be curious to hear how others move from the crimper hold to the hold 4' to the right. This would be quite a wild lunge off of a tiny hold with basically no feet! I did not do it this way and my way was quite contrived to say the least... ***** in the Falcons Guide is right on! Aug 7, 2003