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Routes in The Egg

Coffee and Cigarettes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Egg Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egg Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Egghead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junglework TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shell Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Language S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunnyside Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This is your Brain on Drugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,084 total · 67/month
Shared By: Nicholas L. on Aug 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

I felt like this was a better route than Egg Face (5.9) to the right. There was an interesting move after the first bolt and then the crux is probably after the second bolt.

Location

On the East face of the Egg one route to the left of Egg Face. You can either rappel down or on the far left side of the East face you can scramble up or down on easy 5th class terrain.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The bolt on the right at the anchors is an old looking bolt that is attached to a rusty quicklink by old cord. The bolt on the left is solid.

Photos

There is a very nice 5.8ish route on the east side (to the left of Egg Face) that is protected by two bolts to a one-bolt anchor. Not mentioned in the Tresa Black book or here. Also in the middle there is a single bolt to what looks like was a single bolt anchor. Getting to the anchor is quite run out and the only way to clip to the anchor is by using one of the two small slings left at it, so did not attempt. Aug 22, 2011
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
5.10a PG13
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
5.10a PG13
Felt much harder than Egg Face right next to it- very insecure due to lack of feet on a slimy surface. The runout between the first and second bolt feels bold given the lack of secure footing. Jul 31, 2017
Nick Andrew  
 
A bit stressful before you clip the second bolt. A fall is unlikely on the low angle rock, but you are way above the first bolt and not far enough from the ground to eliminate the possibility of a ground fall. Also, the Crux move just after the second bolt is significantly harder than any other move on the whole East face in my opinion. Maybe TR this one first if you are not a confident 5.10 leader. Aug 1, 2018

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