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Routes in Commonwealth

"Otto Mattock" T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ancient Squamish Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fanfare for the Common Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groovy Guru T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hungry, Hungry Hippos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not Easy Being Green T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pop-Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rick’s Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smells Like Fir T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stihl Cleaning T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tastes Like Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total StinkEye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Kevin Henshaw, Chris Small 2012
Page Views: 98 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Start under a small roof with a very positive left jug above it. Lock off, pull up and start into the seam. The gear in the thin is thinner than it looks from the ground, I didn't find a place for anything as big as a yellow Metolius until higher up. Small wires, small cams.

Distinct crux mid-height as you're passing a horizontal break with your feet. It's steeper and the locks are pretty thin. Like the rest of the crag, there are lots of rests everywhere including immediately before and after the crux.

Location

The only route that starts below the head-height roof on the lower part of the crag. The thin seam is fairly distinctive.

Protection

Small gear from purple Metolius/green C3 to #1 Camalot. Doubles in tips/fingers pieces. Chains at the top.

Takes good small gear. I fiddled with small wires my first time up this, but climbed it again last weekend and didn't waste my time with any nuts, took solid cams at comforting intervals.

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