Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett
Page Views: 3,824 total · 58/month
Shared By: Mathew G on Jul 23, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


72 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Right above the second belay station there is a 15' 10b lieback. West Pillar Direct meets back up with West Pillar at the 3rd belay station, right before the traverse left.

Location

Similar to West Pillar, but go straight up during the second pitch rather than towards the right for the West Pillar.

Protection

Old piton at second belay station.

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
The belay in the corner below the crux is shady. Froze my a$$ off while my partner sent it. Moral of the story, lead it, don't follow it. The crux is short and sweet but is right at the start. If the leader blows it, they are coming down to the belay ledge, so be heads up. Jul 24, 2013
revans90  
 
The offwidth and stemming on the first pitch is really fun(if you enjoy that sort of thing) made easier by knobs and takes hand size gear in back(number 4 is handy). Belay on top of the offwidth at a stance with pins/gear. Climb up from the belay on hand cracks and flakes, continuing up a crack to set a belay on the ledge. Pull a short 5.10 lie back into hand jams, belay on top of the hand crack and the start of 3rd/4th class. The 3rd/4th class is super fun, work up and left then over to the other side and belay below a corner at a ledge. two options straight up into the knobby offwidth/stem or go left around the corner and up angling cracks. Finish on the regular route.
Standard rack + #4BD.

I liked this climb almost as much as the Third Pillar. Jun 20, 2015
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
P1 - sustained 5.9 up the wide crack. You can stay on the outside for some of it but it does require some mandatory offwidthy skills higher up to gain the belay ledge.

P2 - Stay left for the direct variation. Sustained 5.8 hand cracks. mmmmm.......hand crack!

P3 - 15 feet of 5.10- right off the belay to gain the ridge then run it out on 5.easy as far as you can. Nice views!

P4 - 3rd class to 5.easy. Wind your way up and left around a pillar up into a corner. Many options here.

P5 - Many options. Choose what you like to the top. I stayed left for some tremendous exposure and 5.8 rib wrestling. You can go strait up for some more 5.9 offwidthy goodness. Jul 12, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
P3-easy moves for 10b
P5-left variation (5.8) is best described as awkward, off-balance Jul 14, 2016
Neha Khurana  
 
Super fun route! We made the mistake of climbing too early - DO NOT do this. We had numb fingers and toes for the first couple pitches. The first offwidth pitch isn't too bad, can mostly stem around with a couple mandatory sections. The 10b layback/finger crack was pretty mellow although the feet are slippery. None of the cruxes on this route are sustained. Would recommend scrambling up and taking the Cathedral trail down instead of the slab descent. Sep 8, 2017
As a consistent 5.8 climber working to gain technique and strength by climbing in the Sierras, I knew this route would be challenging. I led every pitch except for the 3rd/4th class. I considered the first pitch to be the technical and psychological crux of the route. I proudly pulled on gear, including two 4" cams. OOF. A 5" or 6" cam would more appropriately protect the bulge on the first pitch, but they wouldn't help much on the other pitches (whereas I could place one or two 4" cams on every pitch.) I sent the second pitch clean, and did not consider the 5.10b at the start of the third pitch to be terribly challenging. The final pitch was more challenging than the second IMO. I couldn't tell exactly which part of the SuperTopo topo I climbed, but It was a steep hand crack which required stemming. In addition, I frustratingly developed bad rope drag on the last pitch and had to setup an extra belay/pitch. The first and second belay stations are nicely positioned with a fixed piton. They were in the shade even well in the afternoon.

My partner and I rappelled from the top and went down the slab descent because we had gear at the base of the route. It was a fine descent, yet if you descend this way and pick a poor path you could be in for danger.

Great route, I cant wait to come back and tackle the off-width with better style! Jun 21, 2018
David S.
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a/b
David S.   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a/b
The second pitch is absolutely wild for a 5.8! What a climb overall-- I felt like I had just run a marathon after I chose the offwidth way up the final pitch. Sep 6, 2018