Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sheldon Smith, Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, August 1970
Page Views: 16,409 total · 92/month
Shared By: Eric Sorenson on Jun 3, 2009
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Characterized by a difficult approach and longish descent with three great pitches of roped climbing this climb is an off the beaten track, classic Yosemite adventure climb. Approach by walking up and right from the toe of Lower Brother, taking a left at the first major ramp system. From here 250 feet of scrambling (some 4th or maybe easy 5th) will take you to the base of the route.

P1: Two options, a 5.7 exciting chimney or a 5.9 flake, we took the chimney and weren't disappointed. Belay at the highest ledge at the base of a perfect thin hands splitter.

P2: Climb the excellent splitter. Pass an old bolt casing (optional belay) and continue up the left facing corner. Lots of hands to off hands with an awkward bulge/horn to pass on this part of the pitch. Belay at a nice ledge with trees after 175 feet.

P3: Again a couple options; we continued up the most logical line, the groove to OW corner. The intimidating OW above isn't too bad with lieback techniques and a 5" piece. Continue with the chimney above and belay on another comfortable ledge.

Location Suggest change

To descend, first climb up another 200-300 feet (some 4th or easy 5th class) to the base of the upper headwall, then descend climber's left down Michael's Ledge. There isn't much of a trail and almost no cairns, so use your best judgement as for when to get off the ledges. Its best not to leave anything at the base as the descent doesn't take you anywhere near the start of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

nuts, double cams .6-3", single 4", slings. Optional extra 1.5-3" and/or a 5" piece.

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