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Routes in Lower Brother

Absolutely Free Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Absolutely Free, Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawkman's Escape T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maple Jam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Positively 4th Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dennis Miller, Jeff Mathis, Chris Falkenstein, March 1973
Page Views: 3,079 total · 23/month
Shared By: Will S on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is a clean and aesthetic crack line that turns a small roof reminiscent of Committment on the 2nd pitch. It is usually rappelled after the first two pitches, but you can continue for two more pitches of 5.7 at a lower quality than the initial two pitches. If doing the upper pitches, take two ropes to rap. The first pitch starts with a somewhat slippery 5.7 lieback section to easy low angle jamming, ~75 feet. Belay on gear in cracks directly below the second pitch, or move way right to the rap station at a bay tree. Belay takes nuts, small TCUs, and cams from 1.25" to 3". Second pitch starts perfect hands up and around the roof and thins to 1.25" as the angle kicks back, ~75 feet, bolted anchor.

Location

From the toe of the Lower Brother, walk left approximately 50 feet to and obvious left facing lieback flake with a distinct small roof about 100' up. From the top of P2 rap on one rope to the bay tree with rap slings just right of the start of P2.

Protection

Cams to 2". 2nd pitch anchor is two new bolts backed up with two old 1/4" ers.

Photos

jon vandub
westminster,co
jon vandub   westminster,co
i thought that this route was pretty fun and sraight forward.
It really reminded me of winter dreams on the december wall up hwy 7 out of lyons. Feb 27, 2008
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
  5.9
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
  5.9
This route is AWESOME! Commitment anyone? May 22, 2009
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
With good rope management and enough 1.5-3" cams, it is easy enough to link the first two pitches for a great lead. The rappel from the bolted anchor is 110' to the ground, so a single 70m rope will do the trick. Jun 3, 2009
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
This route also tops out, and I hear its pretty good. Descend Michael's Ledge to the left when you reach the top. Feb 2, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
That bay tree is infested with ants, I wouldn't go near it. Either rap to the ground (with a 70m or two shorter ropes) or continue to the top.

The slippery start seemed like the crux of the whole route. Feb 8, 2011
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Great climb! Took us an extra few minutes to find as it is more like 300' left and uphill of the toe of Little Brother. Sep 19, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
Great climb with bomber pro and very easy access, literally 5 min from the car. I can't believe this isn't more popular. Oct 14, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
A nice, soft 5.9. You can protect the roof very well.

No ants in the bay tree this time. However they were everywhere at the gear belay! They were also all over the small tree atop P3 (5.4) in the Reid guide.

We topped out today, and I'd say the pitch after the 5.4 is a nice 5.6 hand to finger crack with an interesting hummock mantel move to finish. Beware that the Reid guide info of 2 pitches of 5.7 is not correct! We did 3 long pitches, with some scrambling in between. It is very difficult to find the right way to go to get onto Michael's ledge. We came by 3 different rappel anchors and an abandoned cam that someone lowered off of when they got off route. We eventually found a way out via a sustained 5.8 stem in a chimney/flare.

Topping out is a fun adventure climb going to the top, but be ready for climbing that is not sustained, and is brushy, dirty, and has tricky routefinding. I'd rate the upper pitches 1 star.

BTW, we did the topout pitches after lowering off 4th St and climbing the variation to the right (Nutty Buddy, 5.8). I took my time and cleaned a lot of the cracks out as I led, so it should be a decent climb now. Feb 13, 2012
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
link first two pitches. Safe #1 and #2 for the roof and one #.75 after the roof.
Root take all medium gear from #.75 to #3 Apr 23, 2012
Linked p1-2... wished I had a couple more #0.75 camalots. The roof is great, and the steep 5.7 LB start felt pretty heady for the grade. This is a great pitch! May 7, 2013
benkraft Kraft
San Francisco, California
 
benkraft Kraft   San Francisco, California
 
Great climbing, but scattered rockfall while on route. Possibly from another party descending Micheal's ledge / Absolutely Free, we'd done the descent earlier that day and likely kicked a few things off. Might be a regular thing, I wouldn't hang out at the base. Feb 17, 2015
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
I would highly recommend doing the 2nd pitch to this. It is very dirty as of Oct 2016 however its super fun and will clean up nicely. Its quality will only improve as it cleans up. Oct 18, 2016

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