Dust in the Wind

Following the inspiration of Brandon Adams and his route Wayward Son, Dust in the Wind sits across the valley as a modern route up the Lower Brother. This route is dedicated to Meg O’Neil, Travis McAlpine and Reese Doyle. All of them amazing people we lost too soon.

P.1  5.11: Cool dihedral, bad warmup, with crack switch and chimney finish. 2 bolt anchor 100’

P.2 5.8: Move left off the belay into a low angle arete/rounded crack. 2 bolt anchor 70’

Climb up and walk across the Absolutely Tree ledge to rock scramble. End in alcove below a shattered corner. 3rd/4th class for 200’

P.3 5.10: Climb huge flake system lie back and slab to nice tree ledge belay. 2 bolts, 80’ tree belay

P.4 5.7: Butt crack corner to offwidth. 60’ 2 bolt anchor

P.5 5.10: Boulder lie back just right of the belay, a bolt protects the crux. Stellar, exciting and somewhat heady face climbing leads to a tree. 80’ tree belay

(Optional Skip) Move Right up the ledge and climb the featured face trending Left to the Tree. 5.3

P.6 5.9 Face and a diagonal crack, exit the the crack left to an awesome stance then move back right around the arete. Finish pulling a cool roof. 130’ positively 4th tree belay 

Move out right on 3rd/4th and climb up crossing a gully. shortly you will find the rappel bolts, a glorious ledge and an incredible groove/corner. 50’

P.7 5.7: Amazing climbing up the corner with beautiful rock. Up past a tree you’ll find a steep section. Step right and continue up till you get to a nice ledge. 200’

P.8 5.8: “The Sport Pitch” Move up a corner/Arete with amazing holds. Clip fixed pins that were there when we climbed it. Get to a ledge and climb up the slab clipping a final bolt before getting to the Anchor. 105’ 2 bolt anchor.

From here you can scramble up 4th class or rappel the route

Walk to SW base of lower brother, west of Michael’s Ledge and east of the creek. Look for cairns after cave/overhang.

Doubles from #.3-3, single .2 or black totem. Nuts, slings. A 70m is close tie Knots.