Absolutely Free, Center
5.9,
Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.4 from 193
votes
FA: Sheldon Smith, Mark Klemens and Rick Sylvester, August 1970
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> D. Camp 4 Area
> 2. Lower Brother
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Details
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Description
Characterized by a difficult approach and longish descent with three great pitches of roped climbing this climb is an off the beaten track, classic Yosemite adventure climb. Approach by walking up and right from the toe of Lower Brother, taking a left at the first major ramp system. From here 250 feet of scrambling (some 4th or maybe easy 5th) will take you to the base of the route.
P1: Two options, a 5.7 exciting chimney or a 5.9 flake, we took the chimney and weren't disappointed. Belay at the highest ledge at the base of a perfect thin hands splitter.
P2: Climb the excellent splitter. Pass an old bolt casing (optional belay) and continue up the left facing corner. Lots of hands to off hands with an awkward bulge/horn to pass on this part of the pitch. Belay at a nice ledge with trees after 175 feet.
P3: Again a couple options; we continued up the most logical line, the groove to OW corner. The intimidating OW above isn't too bad with lieback techniques and a 5" piece. Continue with the chimney above and belay on another comfortable ledge.
Location
To descend, first climb up another 200-300 feet (some 4th or easy 5th class) to the base of the upper headwall, then descend climber's left down Michael's Ledge. There isn't much of a trail and almost no cairns, so use your best judgement as for when to get off the ledges. Its best not to leave anything at the base as the descent doesn't take you anywhere near the start of the climb.
Protection
nuts, double cams .6-3", single 4", slings. Optional extra 1.5-3" and/or a 5" piece.
[Hide Photo] flake on the final pitch
[Hide Photo] Three options for Pitch 3: fingercrack (left), offwidth (center), layback (right). All are 5.9.
Madison, WI
I would compare this to the Northeast Face of Lower Cathedral Spire, another "former classic" that I really enjoyed.
Take two pieces in the 4-5 inch range. Jun 9, 2009
Livermore, CA
Tamarisk Clearing
Rapping with 2 60's is pretty straightforward. Bring a big piece of webbing/cordelette in case the slung boulder on top has been unslung. Jun 17, 2009
Oakland, CA
Buyer beware with Hawkman's - it's serious up there. DNF zones, "5.9," and can't pull through some cruxes on gear.
Some good pics: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
And here:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Jul 18, 2009
Mountain View, CA
...
Leave your bags in your car so you don't have to walk back to the start of the climb after descending Michael's Ledge.
I've always taken the variation (.8) out left then up for the last pitch. Apr 2, 2010
Fort Collins, CO
on the road
The Reid guide says pro to 3" on this one and I would be inclined to agree. We took one #4 but never used it. Makes me wonder if the first ascent team avoided the offwidth on the last pitch also? The finger crack left of the offwidth is way fun and aesthetic.
All the stuff you read about the splitter pitch being awesome is totally true!
Didn't have much trouble with Michaels Ledge either. When in doubt stay close to the wall. Apr 16, 2013
Mammoth
Santa Rosa, CA
TR here: supertopo.com/tr/Absolutely… May 16, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
Brought doubles to #3 c4 and an extra .75 and #1 would be nice to not run it out much. Did the right variation on the 4th pitch and it was super enjoyable 5.9 lie backing. A good way to end a pretty cool route. Aug 2, 2016
Grand Junction
Bend
Winter Park, CO
San Francisco, CA
Marin, CA
Seattle, WA
Auburn, Ca
Philadelphia, PA
Regarding the approach: It was relatively easy to find the 5.6 slab that marks the base of the route. The gigantic right facing corner that is to the right of the route is also very clear from the base. Go up the gully to the right of the slab. Don't bother climbing the slab itself - it is unprotected and kinda sketchy in approach shoes. At this point, you might want to put climbing shoes on, but my advice is to stay unroped. Leading this pitch creates heinous rope drag. Climb up and left. Eventually you get to a grassy ramp that has been trampled. Continue up the ramp and up some blocky terrain until you see a steep gully with some trees on the left. The first "real" pitch starts at the top of the gully. We climbed the left-facing corner that is somewhat dirty and vegetated. It gets cleaner the higher you go.
Regarding the topout: After the last 5.9 pitch, continue up and climber's right. You will find a vegetated right-facing corner. Go up the corner and climber's left to gain Michael's Ledge. We placed some half-assed cairns since we weren't 100% certain we were going the right way. But I think it's pretty logical way to go...
As the route gains more traffic, most of this will become more obvious, but right now there's a lot of dirt and we found the topos hard to decipher. Jun 5, 2017
Bend
As far as the decent goes, we were able to rap from the chockstone in the last chimney, down to the intermediate bolts next to the p2 splitter, then 2 more raps down with a 70m. This was much more efficient than the walk off in my opinion. After reversing a bit of the 4th/5th class stuff, there is a tree with some slings that can be rapped off to the base. Aug 9, 2017
Yosemite, CA
Rapping vs. Walking Off? In this case the descent is long, and creates major erosion walking down Michael's Ledge, so from a ecological standpoint a rappel route is preferred. I've descended both ways, and think rappelling is way better because it is much faster, and doesn't involve the scrambling to get up / on to Michael's Ledge.
As many have said, rapping with one 70m is no problem. There are bolts on the top of the first 5.9 pitch. From the base of this pitch walk downhill on a grassy hillside until you have to make a couple downclimbing moves (5.3) and you can look skier's left and see a rappel station on a ledge. This straightens the final descent bit, allowing you to rap straight down to a tree that is right above the base ledge.
Such a great route. Go For It!
Erik Sloan
RockclimbYosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com Aug 23, 2017
SANTA CLARA CA
Also, for some reason there is a bolted, hanging belay one meter below the cushy P3 belay ledge. Who would use this instead of a 5x10 foot flat ledge with trees on it?
Otherwise, it's a great climb. Splitting P2 into two makes the most sense; you get two great pitches the first to the tree, second to the ledge. Otherwise its a long pitch where you might be light on pro. Oct 15, 2017
San Francisco, CA
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Bishop, CA
I was trying to follow the beta from this photo of someone's trip report: supertopo.com/photos/33/56/…
I've added a red line to show where I climbed: mountainproject.com/photo/1…
Here is another angle of it: mountainproject.com/photo/1…
So what did I climb? I'm questioning whether it was the 5.9 variation because:
1. It felt harder than 5.9. It would definitely be the crux of the whole route.
2. Past the manzanita tree, it's a slightly overhanging ow crack until the roof. I placed an almost fully open #5 ~10 feet above the tree and then it gets too wide for anything but the super wide stuff for the next ~20 feet to the roof. It's probably R without a #5, and PG-13 with it given the ledge below you. Seems weird no one would mention this?
3. Max Rausch below talks about it as a "LEFT flake variation, which was very dirty". This was clean and very far RIGHT.
Thanks! Dec 18, 2017
Burlington, VT
Davis, CA
Yosemite Valley
The climbing itself is pretty straightforward, albeit a little thuggy, looking at you mega-pitch 2. The chimney is easy and with a #5 you can be on TR basically the whole time which is reassuring. 3rd pitch lieback is money to top things off.
The 4th and 5th class at the bottom is real and can be a little run out for a baby like me.
The adventure is only halfway over though after you finish. Follow what others have said but to add, you are basically climbing to the base of the upper wall after pitch "3", which you'll prolly end up roping up for. The descent is pretty easy from there but no one places any cairns in this upper section because they're lost too. Any feelings of "omg is this it this is exposed!!" more than likely mean you went the wrong way.
IMO the walk off does complete the adventure, rapping takes away from the spirit of the route at least for a first timer. Mar 21, 2021
Albuquerque, NM
I pitched this out as 5 shorter pitches. This resulted in little to no rope drag and let me have a tight belay above some ledges. The route description doing it this way would be as follows:
Pitch 0: junky approach pitch, rope up if/when you feel like it. Lots of 4th/low 5th terrain everywhere, hard to tell what the path of least resistance is.
Pitch 1: Climb the steep chimney, which looks intimidating but is actually fairly casual. Good jams and holds appear when you need them. Exit the chimney to a ledge on the right with a bolted anchor (and some tat as of May 2021). This pitch was very fun and creative.
Pitch 2: Climb the nice handcrack just to the right of the bolted anchor. You will get to a ledge on the left, but don't belay here; do some face climbing up and right to get to a higher ledge on the right that is right at the base of the splitter crack. Build a gear anchor here, it means you will have little rope drag and a tight belay for the tougher finger crack right off the ledge, which will be comforting if 5.9 is near your limit. This is a short pitch but it's fun and a good warmup for the tougher thin hands on the next pitch.
Pitch 3: Start up the finger crack which quickly turns into a splitter thin hands crack. Bring several number BD #1s. Belay at the obvious tree growing out of the crack. This is a great pitch!
Pitch 4: Continue up the crack (not the corner to the right of the crack), which gets a little wide right above the tree. You can reach deep inside the wide crack for wide hand jams; BD #3s are great here. I found this section very physical but at the same time very secure. Pull a fun small roof using great holds, and continue up the left facing corner to a nice ledge with trees. Another great pitch! Belay high up on the ledge at the base of whichever finish variation you choose; I built a gear belay right underneath the start of the lieback variation, which is marked by a short left facing corner below a small roof. You could easily combine this with the previous pitch; it wouldn't result in extra rope drag, and it would protect well as the previous pitch wants BD #1s whereas this pitch wants #3s and maybe a #4; it would also skip the hanging belay at the tree.
Pitch 5: I did the lieback variation, which is a fantastic pitch. Follow the short left facing corner, pull around the small roof, and continue up and occasionally to the right on liebacks and finger cracks in corners.
We decided to rope up for one short section of the approach, but didn't feel the need to rope up for the scramble to Michael's Ledge. Both have some easy 5th class sections.
Pro: I brought triples of hand size cams (BD 0.75-3) which was nice to have to really sew up the 5.9 handcrack sections; doubles in smaller sizes. You could get away with doubles with some bumping/backcleaning. I brought a #4 which was nice in a few spots but not really necessary. No #5 as I did not do the OW variation for the last pitch. Also nuts which I used sparingly. May 10, 2021
SW Colorado
We decided to walk off instead (goes easy, great trail once you gain the ledge) - that anchor is just an unjustifiable hazard. There's a pinch point about 10 feet back from the chockstone that would make a solid rap, but you'd either need a rope longer than 70, or a massive amount of tat to extend it to a similar masterpoint. Oct 24, 2021
San Francisco
san francisco
1. Re Matthew's comment from 10/2021: I climbed Absolutely Free for the first time on 4/9/22. Someone has moved the rap anchor at the top from the sketchy chock stone to the pinch point that Matthew described. As a result, you need to downclimb about 10 feet to get back to the ledge, even with a 70m rope.
2. I don't consider myself a particularly strong 5.9 climber, but I disagree on bringing triples of #1 and #3 sized cams. You can definitely bump your #1s and #3s safely on the crux hands sections. Apr 10, 2022
SLC, UT