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Lakeside in the Woods Rock Climbing

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Routes in Lakeside in the Woods

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	A Modern Art Masterpiece T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bulbous S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Bull, The T 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b R
	Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Can of Worms, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Equally Worthless, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fearless Fraser S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Freeloader T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Gunslinger, The T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13
	In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Show me your War face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Texas Steer or Texas Q T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Thumbelina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tiffany Cuff Links T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Under the Eye of Newton S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Whinging Wife, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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GPS:	49.64426, -123.20967 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Like most of the crags at Murrin Park, Lakeside in the Woods faces east and gets filtered, morning sun. The climbing is an eclectic mix, with plenty of easy and moderate climbs and some hard trad test pieces.

At the south end of the wall are some moderate sport climbs (5.7-10d). The middle of the wall has the hardest climbing, including some very bold climbs: The Gunslinger (13d trad) and The Bull (14a R trad). The north end includes The Reacharound, a fantastic moderate that is included in Marc Bourdon's Top 100 Squamish Climbs.

Directly across from The Reacharound is the Common Wealth, which contains a number of mainly easier traditionaly protected climbs and is quite popular.

Two recently developed (2013) nearby crags are Quercus Cliff, which is a few minutes walk along the Murrin Loop trail, and The Valley of the Lost Tribe which is around the right side of the Common Wealth.

Details on these new crags are available at quickdrawpublications.com/ . See the Free Downloads page.

http://vimeo.com/42090546

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=B5mlA3YuMtY

Getting There

Take the trail around the right side of Browning Lake. After the picnic tables, take a good trail that branches right, signed as of 2014 as the Murrin Park loop trail. Stay right at a junction for the Common Wealth, Lakeside in the Woods, and Quercus. See the map for details.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lakeside in the Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 41 ● In the Doghouse Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 40 ● Under the Eye of Newton Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 281 ● The Reacharound Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 37 ● Thumbelina Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Texas Steer or Texas Q Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 50 ● A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 140 ● More Than Just A Pretty Face Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 182 ● The Burglar Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● The Whinging Wife Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 38 ● Fearless Fraser Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 18 ● Freeloader Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 7 ● Whiskers of the Observer Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 7 ● Bulbous Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 12 ● The Masses Are Asses Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Coitus Interruptus Trad