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WI4-5
 29
Bridal Veil Left
Jan 25, 2026 · 3 pitches. TR. TRed the two left flows, one TR solo on the static line and one on TR. W/ Tanner and Harry. Super crowded in the morning buy by mid afternoon when we got over here it was basically empty. Must've been a morning clinic or something.
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 49
White Nightmare
Jan 25, 2026 · TR. TRed it twice after Tanner put it up after we bailed on Miller's due to crowds. Crowded day on all ice in the canyon.
Ice 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 538
Mexican Crack
Jan 18, 2026 · TR. Followed after Tanner lead, bottom felt pretty ok, middle was thin and balancy as always. Good day in the sun.
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 57
Closed Casket Variation
Jan 18, 2026 · TR. Actually did all the moves with one fall on TR, had to reach super high tip toeing on bad slab feet to reach the bad holds in the seam with the pin. After this it eases off, but that move is super reachy for me! Rest of climb is sustained and fun. W/ Tanner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 735
The Coffin
Jan 18, 2026 · 2 pitches. Lead. Lead, felt good for a winter lap. Warm in the sun with high in the 40s. TRed once after, w/ Tanner.
Trad
WI4-5
 29
Bridal Veil Left
Jan 17, 2026 · 6 pitches. TR. With Tanner and James. Tanner lead, we TRed two flows on the left. Good ice considering the season we've had so far. Probably won't last too long though. TR solo the left flow, regular TR the right one. Only one other group that showed up later into the day close to sunset.
Ice 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2
 51
Tricks of the Trade
Dec 13, 2025 · 14 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Huge route, classic but burly, especially if hauling. Day 1 we climbed to first ledges (just above P5, Calvinator), Day 2 we made it to top of P14 before we went down to rap before dark and get home before midnight. Tanner lead P1-4, I took P5-10, Tanner P11-14. I was feeling out of it, more sluggish and scared than usual ie Tanner leading most the hard/scary pitches haha. Not sure if it was lack of stoke or what. Hauling chimneys sucked, I basically lifted the bag on follow through most the mines of moria pitch. need to get haul line outside chimneys. Good bivys all over lower on route. I enjoyed the chimneys though I was on follow, they were slick and sandy too. Calvinator was sick. Headwall pitches were awesome. Tood the wrong handcrack variation on the right side of the pillar just left of the OW (the actual var starts on the left side) and had to traverse. Rack: Brassies and offsets, metolius gray and purp (only used on aid pitch), double black totem to #4, triples #1-#3, single #5 and #6. Only used #6 on calvinator though not super necessary, maybe useful on chimneys above headwall idk. See email for full pitch breakdown. Maybe will come back one day for the summit...
Trad, Aid 19 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 67
Tatooine
Dec 6, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Excellent climb. Almost no throw-away climbing for 1400 ft with a majority of it being 5.10+ or harder. It felt like an approachable 5.10+/5.11- though, not sandbagged. We did about 15hrs c2c, 2.25hrs approach, 9 hrs bottom to top, 3ish hours top of route to car via hiking off Mt Kinesava 3rd class descent (scrambled down and up notch to main Kinesava plateau, 1 rap and down scrambling to get to meadow, spent like 30min trying to find petroglyphs in the dark, no luck :(, then hiked down). Linked P1+2+part of P3 (Tanner thought P1 was to first anchor), 3+4, 5, 6+7, 8+9, 10+11, 12+13, 14, 15. Makes sense to link as this breakdown stops at all bolted anchors and skips gear belays (many of which would be hanging). Gear: Doubles black totem - #3, triples 0.4-2, single #4 worked well, might leave behind the third #2 next time. Three blocks, Tanner P1-5, me P6-11, Tanner P12-15. Fixed and followed while leader foot hauled 40L Metolius haul-bag, got stuck on a few pitches but with the follower coming up behind it no biggie. Thought the cruxes were top of P1, and finger crack on P12. Some tenuous sandy/scary sections higher up (P13 traverse, top of P15) but nothing unmanageable. See email for full pitch breakdown. Proud of this one!
Trad 15 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 5
Burn Unit
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. Great pitch, fun traverses. Closer spaced bolts but you still gotta get to the first bolt of intensive care to start it. Fun day in the sun w/ Tanner James and Austin
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 15
Intensive Care
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. Sweet climb, 1st bolt is super high up real bad fall potential. I’d definitely stick clip it if I ever went for the lead but respect to those that send it. P1 is cool, no falls. There was a fixed line on p2 so I tr soloed that pitch with a lead line as a backup, super sustained but great slabbing. Fell multiple times. W/ Tanner Austin and James. We put a TR in this swinging over from p1 of shock trauma.
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 22
Shock Trauma
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. TRed after Austin put it up. Wouldn’t be too scary of a lead, mostly chill climbing with cruxes near bolts. Would be bad blowing it before the 2nd bolt though but it’s easier climbing. Good temps, w/ Austin, James and Tanner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 141
Movie Variation
Nov 15, 2025 · Follow. Top out after Schoolroom west. Harry lead, took a lot but made it haha. He's rehabbing the head game
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 249
Schoolroom West
Nov 15, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead. Easy romp with Harry. He lead P1, I lead P2. Topped out via Movie Var. Chill climbing, some awkward movement though honestly.
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 414
Friend
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. 1 hang. I tried going straight up to the hueco over the roof. Beta is to go right to the rail, then back left. Tanner lead.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 359
Foe
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight (barely) after Tanner lead.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 540
Nightmare on Crude Street
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead.
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 106
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk)
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 314
The Heavy Hitter
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead. Day 4 on, I was real sore and getting pumped easily. Fun climb.
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 78
Resolution Arete
Nov 10, 2025 · 8 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Did the upper pitches from Inti. Kind of a let down after Inti, but cool to top out Wilson. Route-finding was a bit challenging, and neither I nor Tanner really liked these pitches. Must be a pretty good climb below to get the star rating it does. From the top of Inti, easy climbing up the ridge over and a bit down to a bivy site at the base of a blocky headwall. From there Tanner went up a crack on the right near the bivy site and stepped through into a chimney (tiny pitch like 30 ft), then up and left in the chimney, back out a different hole then left to a dihedral. I'm not sure if this is right, different trip reports say conflicting things about this section. Then up the wide crack in the dihedral (#4 useful) up a chimney to a good ledge. Do the obvious cat walk to the left (we were roped, I'd unrope next time). Up an to the right is a 20ft wide chimney, climb up the left side (hands to a bit wider) and belay below the rotten white roof (challenging belay, not a ton of pro here, though I only had a few pieces left). Up the roof (easy and fun though it looks hard from below) a big ledge with a pine tree. From here it is 4th and low 5th to the top, Tanner and I did like 3 pitches to the top though maybe we'd unrope next time. Idk, there was some real climbing with exposure. Look at Abegg's trip report for pics and beta. Walk to the summit. We descended Oak Creek, easy to find the tower and drop down using the slabs if you follow the gpx, then a bunch of down scrambling, a couple fixed ropes, lots of boulder hopping and you eventually get back the trail. Felt long, took us about 3 hours. If it were wet the slabs could be scary, though if it's wet you shouldn't be climbing.
Trad, Aid 24 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 418
Inti Watana
Nov 10, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Suck a sick climb. We did 12hrs c2c topping out Wilson via Res Arete and descending Oak Creek to the north. Started hiking a little after 5am from Middle Oak Creek, follow MP gpx to find start of White rot gully. It is well cairned when you get closer, good trail until a seeming dead end out left on a ledge, but here is where you start scrambling up the gully. Definitely some 5th class movement but low exposure, you scramble quite a while and eventually cut back left at the pine tree (see Abegg photo) to final scramble up to and then behind chockstone to get to the gully where the climb starts. Approach took about 1:45. All Inti pitches are sweet. Bottom two are sustained and so fun, P2 is best quality on entire route. Swung leads with Tanner, he took P1. I won't do a pitch by pitch breakdown, but route-finding was straightforward and easy, I think we linked P5+6 and P11+12 with a 70m, maybe a couple more. Climbing went fast, it's pretty rompy above P2. Awesome flowy climbing with great exposure. Only got sun for about an hour on P4 around 10am. We brought singles 0.3-#3 nuts, had to run it out sometime with this rack. I'd bring more fingers to make a comfier rack and leave the #3. Lots of draws, especially to link. Climbed Inti in about 4 hours. See Res Arete tick for top out and descent. We were going to do it the day earlier but found a party at the trailhead about to do it and they said there was another party in front of them too. Glad we postponed as there was no-one else on route that day. All time route, if I were to do it again I'd probably bring an 80m and rap for a more casual day.
Trad 12 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Extra Credit
Nov 9, 2025 · Follow. Great pitch, don't even need that much gear to protect it either. Hardest moves are the lie-backs off the deck, then cruiser hands and foot chips on the right wall as well. Would recommend. Tanner lead. We continued left and up to Mescalito summit (85ish m simul pitch).
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 374
Dark Shadows (Full)
Nov 9, 2025 · 7 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Awesome climb, well worth doing the whole thing to the top. We pivoted to this after finding out two parties would have been ahead of us on Inti, got in line before the park opened. We passed a cool party of three doing their AMGA guide test (they did the Slot Machine start then joined back in about P4). Swung leads w/ Tanner. I lead P1+2, easy intro to cool corner to traverse. P3 great long corner climbing. P4 you go onto the smooth black face that's broken by a varied crack, awesome face climbing and exposure here. P5 up and left up more bolts past a fun bulge to a crack then to a chimney, belay on top of the pillar. P6 face climb up and next to the right chimney feature, then up and left on a face to a bolt (maybe 2?) belay backed up by a cam. P7 up a crack (lots of thin gear) and more face climbing belay on good ledge. P8 pass a roof and up a crack to a bushy ledge, I belayed here as I didn't have much gear left (hand size pieces for anchor, I got a .75 and a couple not so great nuts). Tanner linked P9+10 from here, we had to simul some to this with a 70m, super good pitch. Up fun crack to a dihedral to an awesome crack on the face to a hero roof then up easy crack to the top. We walked over and Tanner lead Extra Credit (great, would recommend), then one more simul pitch left and then up to the top (maybe 85m?), pretty fun and cleaner than it looks from below. Hiked off following cairns (south descent) until we could scramble over to the north descent (see gps tracks and photo on MP where the tracks get close), then hiked down the bowl and did the raps as described on the far right gully (see Nathan Brown's comment for great beta). Then beautiful 20 min hike down to the bags at the base and a million parties on the first 4 pitches. Amazing day. Took a single rack .3-#3 which was ok but necessitates run-outs on upper pitches. Comfortable rack would be doubles black totem to like .75, singles to #3. Lots of runners.
Trad 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1,764
Dark Shadows
Nov 9, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Great climb, super interesting and on a very aesthetic feature. See Dark shadows full tick for all info.
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 530
The Nightcrawler
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Incredible route, great rock quality. Swung leads with Tanner, I lead P1 easy but steep. P2 was heads up, you kinda have to run it out in the chimney though Tanner was unphased haha. P3 was money, a lot of stemming and some lie backing. It is sustained but you also get some good rests. Small gear for the finger crack to start then some more small pieces to supplement the many bolts. I thought the crux was at the last two bolts off the mini ledge, I couldn't reach the layback corner hold and had to to an intermediate move to get to it (hard). P3 looks harder but is actually not as bad as it looks, good gear and solid finger locks and holds around. Tanner did it without clipping the two bolts on that pitch of course. P5 is easy climbing, hero roof pull on jugs (so awesome!) though you gotta run it out as there isn't pro for like 20 ft on the roof then traverse. We rapped Time's Up (5.12 on left side of hourglass feature) so we wouldn't rap on the party below us and share the small belays. Went well except for the rope almost getting caught on a flake and an uncomfortable hanging belay. Great climb, would be interesting to do the walk off if I did it again.
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 663
Myster Z
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. We ended up on this after seeing the line of 4 parties on Ginger Cracks to access The Nightcrawler (we were in line to enter the park at 6:10am! That route is too popular, second time we've been skunked on it). This climb is pretty fun, feels super rompy and easy, most the climbing is like 5.5 with the occasional crux. We did 3 simul pitches to the top. Would be much less fun and slower pitching it out. If I ever did it again it'd be fun to simul the whole thing. We were in the sun, it felt pretty hot but not horrible. W/ Tanner
Trad 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 148
Dread Pirate Roberts
Nov 2, 2025 · TR. TR solo after Tanner put it up. Cruxy 0.75 section around block, but you can do a reacy move or two and then you're through to the money hands. Only route I did at the wall as I realized I had left a double rack at 2nd meat. :(, ran to get it back, which I did eventually from the access fund guys :)
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 262
Top Sirloin
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. TRed after Tanner put it up. If you love #1s this thing is a dream. Pretty pumpy for me, though you do get some pretty good rests at a couple spots where the crack opens to a tight #2. Tanner placed like 9 #1s on this thing. Relentless but undeniably classic.
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 31
Gouge On It
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Harry bailed on it at the crack switch then I sent it. Did not bring enough hand sizes for how long it was, I only had like three pieces for the top 60/70 ft. I think I had like 4/5 #2s and 3#3s but I'd bring two or three more #2s and another #1 for the top. A mantle on bad rock protects the chains as well. Great route! Kinda cruxy 0.75s to 0.5s before the fingler locks at the crack switch and a few wide pods that punctuate the 2s and 3s keep it varied. Well worth doing. W/ Harry and crews around. Bring a 0.4 and 0.3 to protect around the crack switch.
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 74
Mouse Meat
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. TR solo after Tanner put it up and fixed a rope. This climb is so fun! Really flowy with a cruxes thrown in. Fun roof down low then a cool finger crux that protects the chains. I had a lot of fun on this one, long route with a lot of quality climbing. W/ Tanner Harry John and crew, Stu and Maddie were also there with a big party as well.
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 201
Evening Ecstacy
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. Belayed Liv who got it with a hang or two then TRed it. Fun, goes from hands to fingers then a step left to more thin hands to hands. Double rack was good to lead it. Fun.
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Smell the Meat
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Unique climb for the creek. Flake seemed solid to me. I took singles 0.5-#1, doubles #2 and #3, triples #4 and doubles #5. Next time would leave a #4 behind and bring another #1 (can place on before the anchors as well as down low off the ground). Happy to have two #5, one to leave low in the flake and one to bump as I lay-backed it. W/ Liv, Harry Tanner John and crew.
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 159
Vision Quest
Oct 31, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. A spooky send for Halloween. This route is fantastic, though the first two pitches weren't as memorable as the top out pitch(es). P1 is a lot of fingers and off fingers to a off width pod (a bit burly), I lead and then swung leads w/ Tanner. P2 is more fun but run-out, chimney off anchors with bad pro, pull around a constriction with a really sketchy looking huge chock-stone that looks like it's ready to go (can climb around it without touching, but seriously be careful). Would have tried trundling if there wasn't 6 people at the base). P2 slot was fun not too bad, I went LSI, Tanner RSI. Either works. P3 has some tricky moves off anchor to fists, hands bulge wasn't bad just steep. P4 is sooo cool. Climb up the dual aretes, pro in horizontals (ok, not great). Pass through a couple times when it opens up. Tanner belayed on the south summit ledge (star drive and slung a block for backup). Each tagged the south summit and downlead (good pro, easy face climbing). I lead the jump across, real spooky but not hard, would be bad fall though if you missed). Place good hand sizes in horizontal then face climb up (not too hard, find the holds) to top out. single 70m rap reached the notch then standard rappel down. Rack black totem, doubles 0.3-#4, triples 0.4, 0.5, and #3. Didn't use the black totem, happy to have double #4 on p3 though not totally necessary. We also came back and tried to link P1 to the top of EDS anchors using ledges but was too sketch. Tanner downlead and we bailed to make dinner haha. Still think Rim Shot is the best BJ route so far, but this is pretty close! Great day out! W/ Tanner
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 49
Pudgy Gumbies
Oct 26, 2025 · 4 pitches. TR. Tanner and I climbed route in the dihedral to the right to access the anchors (easy, like 5.7). Placed directionals as we rapped it, Tanner TRed it once then redpointed! I got three TR laps in sandwiching Tanners TR and lead. I fell twice on the first go, then sent it clean the next two times. Would be real hard onsight as it is very techinical, sequential with small finicky gear. It'll go, it is mostly a question of getting gear beta down and some of the techy spots. See video for gear beta, lots of small stuff. Remember: Use big hold out right to press then for RF, step left on arete to place nut halfway up, work tips crack section before the hand crack, remember crux beta (RF out right, bump RH to hold, RF in and up left to dihedral, RH fall into arete jug).
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 801
Sasquatch
Oct 26, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Soo fun. Climbed to access Pudgy Gumbies with Tanner. No one out there today, the treat of rain scared everyone off I guess haha
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 955
Pentapitch
Oct 26, 2025 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Tanner to access Sasquatch and Pudgy Gumbies
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 715
Bushwhack Crack
Oct 25, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Pinkpoint. W/ Harry who is rehabbing his pinky. Crowded day up the canyon.
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bridal Veil Left Wasatch Range > … > Bridal Veil Fal… > Lower Bridel Veil Falls
 29
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Jan 25, 2026 · 3 pitches. TR. TRed the two left flows, one TR solo on the static line and one on TR. W/ Tanner and Harry. Super crowded in the morning buy by mid afternoon when we got over here it was basically empty. Must've been a morning clinic or something.
White Nightmare Wasatch Range > … > Bridal Veil Fal… > Lower Bridel Veil Falls
 49
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Jan 25, 2026 · TR. TRed it twice after Tanner put it up after we bailed on Miller's due to crowds. Crowded day on all ice in the canyon.
Mexican Crack Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Crescent Crack Buttress
 538
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jan 18, 2026 · TR. Followed after Tanner lead, bottom felt pretty ok, middle was thin and balancy as always. Good day in the sun.
Closed Casket Variation Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Coffin Buttress
 57
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Jan 18, 2026 · TR. Actually did all the moves with one fall on TR, had to reach super high tip toeing on bad slab feet to reach the bad holds in the seam with the pin. After this it eases off, but that move is super reachy for me! Rest of climb is sustained and fun. W/ Tanner
The Coffin Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Coffin Buttress
 735
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jan 18, 2026 · 2 pitches. Lead. Lead, felt good for a winter lap. Warm in the sun with high in the 40s. TRed once after, w/ Tanner.
Bridal Veil Left Wasatch Range > … > Bridal Veil Fal… > Lower Bridel Veil Falls
 29
WI4-5 Ice 2 pitches
Jan 17, 2026 · 6 pitches. TR. With Tanner and James. Tanner lead, we TRed two flows on the left. Good ice considering the season we've had so far. Probably won't last too long though. TR solo the left flow, regular TR the right one. Only one other group that showed up later into the day close to sunset.
Tricks of the Trade Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Isaac
 51
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2 Trad, Aid 19 pitches
Dec 13, 2025 · 14 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Huge route, classic but burly, especially if hauling. Day 1 we climbed to first ledges (just above P5, Calvinator), Day 2 we made it to top of P14 before we went down to rap before dark and get home before midnight. Tanner lead P1-4, I took P5-10, Tanner P11-14. I was feeling out of it, more sluggish and scared than usual ie Tanner leading most the hard/scary pitches haha. Not sure if it was lack of stoke or what. Hauling chimneys sucked, I basically lifted the bag on follow through most the mines of moria pitch. need to get haul line outside chimneys. Good bivys all over lower on route. I enjoyed the chimneys though I was on follow, they were slick and sandy too. Calvinator was sick. Headwall pitches were awesome. Tood the wrong handcrack variation on the right side of the pillar just left of the OW (the actual var starts on the left side) and had to traverse. Rack: Brassies and offsets, metolius gray and purp (only used on aid pitch), double black totem to #4, triples #1-#3, single #5 and #6. Only used #6 on calvinator though not super necessary, maybe useful on chimneys above headwall idk. See email for full pitch breakdown. Maybe will come back one day for the summit...
Tatooine Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Mt Kinesava
 67
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 15 pitches
Dec 6, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Excellent climb. Almost no throw-away climbing for 1400 ft with a majority of it being 5.10+ or harder. It felt like an approachable 5.10+/5.11- though, not sandbagged. We did about 15hrs c2c, 2.25hrs approach, 9 hrs bottom to top, 3ish hours top of route to car via hiking off Mt Kinesava 3rd class descent (scrambled down and up notch to main Kinesava plateau, 1 rap and down scrambling to get to meadow, spent like 30min trying to find petroglyphs in the dark, no luck :(, then hiked down). Linked P1+2+part of P3 (Tanner thought P1 was to first anchor), 3+4, 5, 6+7, 8+9, 10+11, 12+13, 14, 15. Makes sense to link as this breakdown stops at all bolted anchors and skips gear belays (many of which would be hanging). Gear: Doubles black totem - #3, triples 0.4-2, single #4 worked well, might leave behind the third #2 next time. Three blocks, Tanner P1-5, me P6-11, Tanner P12-15. Fixed and followed while leader foot hauled 40L Metolius haul-bag, got stuck on a few pitches but with the follower coming up behind it no biggie. Thought the cruxes were top of P1, and finger crack on P12. Some tenuous sandy/scary sections higher up (P13 traverse, top of P15) but nothing unmanageable. See email for full pitch breakdown. Proud of this one!
Burn Unit Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Intensive Care Slab
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Sport
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. Great pitch, fun traverses. Closer spaced bolts but you still gotta get to the first bolt of intensive care to start it. Fun day in the sun w/ Tanner James and Austin
Intensive Care Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Intensive Care Slab
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 2 pitches
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. Sweet climb, 1st bolt is super high up real bad fall potential. I’d definitely stick clip it if I ever went for the lead but respect to those that send it. P1 is cool, no falls. There was a fixed line on p2 so I tr soloed that pitch with a lead line as a backup, super sustained but great slabbing. Fell multiple times. W/ Tanner Austin and James. We put a TR in this swinging over from p1 of shock trauma.
Shock Trauma Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Intensive Care Slab
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Nov 22, 2025 · TR. TRed after Austin put it up. Wouldn’t be too scary of a lead, mostly chill climbing with cruxes near bolts. Would be bad blowing it before the 2nd bolt though but it’s easier climbing. Good temps, w/ Austin, James and Tanner
Movie Variation Wasatch Range > … > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area
 141
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Nov 15, 2025 · Follow. Top out after Schoolroom west. Harry lead, took a lot but made it haha. He's rehabbing the head game
Schoolroom West Wasatch Range > … > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area
 249
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Nov 15, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead. Easy romp with Harry. He lead P1, I lead P2. Topped out via Movie Var. Chill climbing, some awkward movement though honestly.
Friend Southern Nevada > … > Lower Level > Lower Level - Right
 414
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. 1 hang. I tried going straight up to the hueco over the roof. Beta is to go right to the rail, then back left. Tanner lead.
Foe Southern Nevada > … > Lower Level > Lower Level - Right
 359
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight (barely) after Tanner lead.
Nightmare on Crude Street Southern Nevada > … > Lower Level > Lower Level - Right
 540
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead.
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch D… Southern Nevada > … > Lower Level > Lower Level - Right
 106
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead.
The Heavy Hitter Southern Nevada > … > Lower Level > Lower Level - Right
 314
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Nov 11, 2025 · TR. TRonsight after Tanner lead. Day 4 on, I was real sore and getting pumped easily. Fun climb.
Resolution Arete Southern Nevada > … > Mt Wilson > Aeolian Wall
 78
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 24 pitches
Nov 10, 2025 · 8 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Did the upper pitches from Inti. Kind of a let down after Inti, but cool to top out Wilson. Route-finding was a bit challenging, and neither I nor Tanner really liked these pitches. Must be a pretty good climb below to get the star rating it does. From the top of Inti, easy climbing up the ridge over and a bit down to a bivy site at the base of a blocky headwall. From there Tanner went up a crack on the right near the bivy site and stepped through into a chimney (tiny pitch like 30 ft), then up and left in the chimney, back out a different hole then left to a dihedral. I'm not sure if this is right, different trip reports say conflicting things about this section. Then up the wide crack in the dihedral (#4 useful) up a chimney to a good ledge. Do the obvious cat walk to the left (we were roped, I'd unrope next time). Up an to the right is a 20ft wide chimney, climb up the left side (hands to a bit wider) and belay below the rotten white roof (challenging belay, not a ton of pro here, though I only had a few pieces left). Up the roof (easy and fun though it looks hard from below) a big ledge with a pine tree. From here it is 4th and low 5th to the top, Tanner and I did like 3 pitches to the top though maybe we'd unrope next time. Idk, there was some real climbing with exposure. Look at Abegg's trip report for pics and beta. Walk to the summit. We descended Oak Creek, easy to find the tower and drop down using the slabs if you follow the gpx, then a bunch of down scrambling, a couple fixed ropes, lots of boulder hopping and you eventually get back the trail. Felt long, took us about 3 hours. If it were wet the slabs could be scary, though if it's wet you shouldn't be climbing.
Inti Watana Southern Nevada > … > Mt Wilson > Aeolian Wall
 418
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 12 pitches
Nov 10, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Suck a sick climb. We did 12hrs c2c topping out Wilson via Res Arete and descending Oak Creek to the north. Started hiking a little after 5am from Middle Oak Creek, follow MP gpx to find start of White rot gully. It is well cairned when you get closer, good trail until a seeming dead end out left on a ledge, but here is where you start scrambling up the gully. Definitely some 5th class movement but low exposure, you scramble quite a while and eventually cut back left at the pine tree (see Abegg photo) to final scramble up to and then behind chockstone to get to the gully where the climb starts. Approach took about 1:45. All Inti pitches are sweet. Bottom two are sustained and so fun, P2 is best quality on entire route. Swung leads with Tanner, he took P1. I won't do a pitch by pitch breakdown, but route-finding was straightforward and easy, I think we linked P5+6 and P11+12 with a 70m, maybe a couple more. Climbing went fast, it's pretty rompy above P2. Awesome flowy climbing with great exposure. Only got sun for about an hour on P4 around 10am. We brought singles 0.3-#3 nuts, had to run it out sometime with this rack. I'd bring more fingers to make a comfier rack and leave the #3. Lots of draws, especially to link. Climbed Inti in about 4 hours. See Res Arete tick for top out and descent. We were going to do it the day earlier but found a party at the trailhead about to do it and they said there was another party in front of them too. Glad we postponed as there was no-one else on route that day. All time route, if I were to do it again I'd probably bring an 80m and rap for a more casual day.
Extra Credit Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Nov 9, 2025 · Follow. Great pitch, don't even need that much gear to protect it either. Hardest moves are the lie-backs off the deck, then cruiser hands and foot chips on the right wall as well. Would recommend. Tanner lead. We continued left and up to Mescalito summit (85ish m simul pitch).
Dark Shadows (Full) Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
 374
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 10 pitches
Nov 9, 2025 · 7 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Awesome climb, well worth doing the whole thing to the top. We pivoted to this after finding out two parties would have been ahead of us on Inti, got in line before the park opened. We passed a cool party of three doing their AMGA guide test (they did the Slot Machine start then joined back in about P4). Swung leads w/ Tanner. I lead P1+2, easy intro to cool corner to traverse. P3 great long corner climbing. P4 you go onto the smooth black face that's broken by a varied crack, awesome face climbing and exposure here. P5 up and left up more bolts past a fun bulge to a crack then to a chimney, belay on top of the pillar. P6 face climb up and next to the right chimney feature, then up and left on a face to a bolt (maybe 2?) belay backed up by a cam. P7 up a crack (lots of thin gear) and more face climbing belay on good ledge. P8 pass a roof and up a crack to a bushy ledge, I belayed here as I didn't have much gear left (hand size pieces for anchor, I got a .75 and a couple not so great nuts). Tanner linked P9+10 from here, we had to simul some to this with a 70m, super good pitch. Up fun crack to a dihedral to an awesome crack on the face to a hero roof then up easy crack to the top. We walked over and Tanner lead Extra Credit (great, would recommend), then one more simul pitch left and then up to the top (maybe 85m?), pretty fun and cleaner than it looks from below. Hiked off following cairns (south descent) until we could scramble over to the north descent (see gps tracks and photo on MP where the tracks get close), then hiked down the bowl and did the raps as described on the far right gully (see Nathan Brown's comment for great beta). Then beautiful 20 min hike down to the bags at the base and a million parties on the first 4 pitches. Amazing day. Took a single rack .3-#3 which was ok but necessitates run-outs on upper pitches. Comfortable rack would be doubles black totem to like .75, singles to #3. Lots of runners.
Dark Shadows Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
 1,764
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Nov 9, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Great climb, super interesting and on a very aesthetic feature. See Dark shadows full tick for all info.
The Nightcrawler Southern Nevada > … > Juniper Canyon > Brownstone Wall
 530
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Incredible route, great rock quality. Swung leads with Tanner, I lead P1 easy but steep. P2 was heads up, you kinda have to run it out in the chimney though Tanner was unphased haha. P3 was money, a lot of stemming and some lie backing. It is sustained but you also get some good rests. Small gear for the finger crack to start then some more small pieces to supplement the many bolts. I thought the crux was at the last two bolts off the mini ledge, I couldn't reach the layback corner hold and had to to an intermediate move to get to it (hard). P3 looks harder but is actually not as bad as it looks, good gear and solid finger locks and holds around. Tanner did it without clipping the two bolts on that pitch of course. P5 is easy climbing, hero roof pull on jugs (so awesome!) though you gotta run it out as there isn't pro for like 20 ft on the roof then traverse. We rapped Time's Up (5.12 on left side of hourglass feature) so we wouldn't rap on the party below us and share the small belays. Went well except for the rope almost getting caught on a flake and an uncomfortable hanging belay. Great climb, would be interesting to do the walk off if I did it again.
Myster Z Southern Nevada > … > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress
 663
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. We ended up on this after seeing the line of 4 parties on Ginger Cracks to access The Nightcrawler (we were in line to enter the park at 6:10am! That route is too popular, second time we've been skunked on it). This climb is pretty fun, feels super rompy and easy, most the climbing is like 5.5 with the occasional crux. We did 3 simul pitches to the top. Would be much less fun and slower pitching it out. If I ever did it again it'd be fun to simul the whole thing. We were in the sun, it felt pretty hot but not horrible. W/ Tanner
Dread Pirate Roberts Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cliffs of Insanity
 148
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Nov 2, 2025 · TR. TR solo after Tanner put it up. Cruxy 0.75 section around block, but you can do a reacy move or two and then you're through to the money hands. Only route I did at the wall as I realized I had left a double rack at 2nd meat. :(, ran to get it back, which I did eventually from the access fund guys :)
Top Sirloin Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
 262
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. TRed after Tanner put it up. If you love #1s this thing is a dream. Pretty pumpy for me, though you do get some pretty good rests at a couple spots where the crack opens to a tight #2. Tanner placed like 9 #1s on this thing. Relentless but undeniably classic.
Gouge On It Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
 31
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Harry bailed on it at the crack switch then I sent it. Did not bring enough hand sizes for how long it was, I only had like three pieces for the top 60/70 ft. I think I had like 4/5 #2s and 3#3s but I'd bring two or three more #2s and another #1 for the top. A mantle on bad rock protects the chains as well. Great route! Kinda cruxy 0.75s to 0.5s before the fingler locks at the crack switch and a few wide pods that punctuate the 2s and 3s keep it varied. Well worth doing. W/ Harry and crews around. Bring a 0.4 and 0.3 to protect around the crack switch.
Mouse Meat Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
 74
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. TR solo after Tanner put it up and fixed a rope. This climb is so fun! Really flowy with a cruxes thrown in. Fun roof down low then a cool finger crux that protects the chains. I had a lot of fun on this one, long route with a lot of quality climbing. W/ Tanner Harry John and crew, Stu and Maddie were also there with a big party as well.
Evening Ecstacy Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
 201
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Nov 1, 2025 · TR. Belayed Liv who got it with a hang or two then TRed it. Fun, goes from hands to fingers then a step left to more thin hands to hands. Double rack was good to lead it. Fun.
Smell the Meat Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall
 63
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Unique climb for the creek. Flake seemed solid to me. I took singles 0.5-#1, doubles #2 and #3, triples #4 and doubles #5. Next time would leave a #4 behind and bring another #1 (can place on before the anchors as well as down low off the ground). Happy to have two #5, one to leave low in the flake and one to bump as I lay-backed it. W/ Liv, Harry Tanner John and crew.
Vision Quest Southeast Utah > … > Bridger Jacks > King of Pain
 159
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Oct 31, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. A spooky send for Halloween. This route is fantastic, though the first two pitches weren't as memorable as the top out pitch(es). P1 is a lot of fingers and off fingers to a off width pod (a bit burly), I lead and then swung leads w/ Tanner. P2 is more fun but run-out, chimney off anchors with bad pro, pull around a constriction with a really sketchy looking huge chock-stone that looks like it's ready to go (can climb around it without touching, but seriously be careful). Would have tried trundling if there wasn't 6 people at the base). P2 slot was fun not too bad, I went LSI, Tanner RSI. Either works. P3 has some tricky moves off anchor to fists, hands bulge wasn't bad just steep. P4 is sooo cool. Climb up the dual aretes, pro in horizontals (ok, not great). Pass through a couple times when it opens up. Tanner belayed on the south summit ledge (star drive and slung a block for backup). Each tagged the south summit and downlead (good pro, easy face climbing). I lead the jump across, real spooky but not hard, would be bad fall though if you missed). Place good hand sizes in horizontal then face climb up (not too hard, find the holds) to top out. single 70m rap reached the notch then standard rappel down. Rack black totem, doubles 0.3-#4, triples 0.4, 0.5, and #3. Didn't use the black totem, happy to have double #4 on p3 though not totally necessary. We also came back and tried to link P1 to the top of EDS anchors using ledges but was too sketch. Tanner downlead and we bailed to make dinner haha. Still think Rim Shot is the best BJ route so far, but this is pretty close! Great day out! W/ Tanner
Pudgy Gumbies Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area
 49
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Oct 26, 2025 · 4 pitches. TR. Tanner and I climbed route in the dihedral to the right to access the anchors (easy, like 5.7). Placed directionals as we rapped it, Tanner TRed it once then redpointed! I got three TR laps in sandwiching Tanners TR and lead. I fell twice on the first go, then sent it clean the next two times. Would be real hard onsight as it is very techinical, sequential with small finicky gear. It'll go, it is mostly a question of getting gear beta down and some of the techy spots. See video for gear beta, lots of small stuff. Remember: Use big hold out right to press then for RF, step left on arete to place nut halfway up, work tips crack section before the hand crack, remember crux beta (RF out right, bump RH to hold, RF in and up left to dihedral, RH fall into arete jug).
Sasquatch Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area
 801
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Oct 26, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Soo fun. Climbed to access Pudgy Gumbies with Tanner. No one out there today, the treat of rain scared everyone off I guess haha
Pentapitch Wasatch Range > … > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area
 955
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Oct 26, 2025 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Tanner to access Sasquatch and Pudgy Gumbies
Bushwhack Crack Wasatch Range > … > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area
 715
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Oct 25, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Pinkpoint. W/ Harry who is rehabbing his pinky. Crowded day up the canyon.
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