Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kim Miller, Jim Knight - February 1977
Page Views: 3,743 total · 24/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. Details

Description

P1- Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R).

P2- From the right end of the ledge face climb past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a clean cut ledge (big runout) or traverse right (safer) to a big pine tree. (5.11 R)

The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab. To my knowledge this has never been repeated. Everyone since has traversed right from the top of the shallow cracks.

This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and that sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care after being injured in a fall.

Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon & Ted Higgins.

The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot 2 years later.

Location

5-10' left of Shock Trauma at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.

Protection

Draws, a few thin wireds and offset nuts. Poor placements.

Photos