Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 7,857 total · 40/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

307 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


One of the better climbs in the corridor - It's not loose like the guide indicates. This climbs the huge hueco system directly across from the Bon- climbs. Crux is a tough step right about halfway up.


A few bolts to a lower-off.


Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
This climb is rated 5.10b in Roxanna's new book...it looks like the bolt line was chopped and move a little left. The crux is currently about 4/5 the way up, at the top of the heucos, on a slightly overhung fingerlock. Super fun route, if you are in the Black Corridor, this one is a must do! Awesome kneebar move behind a large flake/heuco feature! Apr 1, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
I disagree with the newer rating. The moves off the crimps to pull the buldge near the top are .10d. In my opinion, the easy heucos up to that point aren't enough reason for the downgrade. Apr 20, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Fun, all positive route. Feb 23, 2007
Josh Audrey
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
i agree with matt. i was pretty pumped at the top so those crimps seem harder. Mar 6, 2007
ventura, ca
scottydo   ventura, ca
Just did this route back in March. Awesome route and crux is definitely 4/5 of the way up. Apr 11, 2009
Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
We did this route recently (08/14/2009) and, since it has been re-bolted, you are now able to climb left of the original line and take advantage of a couple of serious "no hands" rests in the huecos that lead up to the the thin crux with the "slightly overhung fingerlock". I guess this is why the route has been given an easier grade and we felt that the 5.10b grade was spot on. You can still do the original direct finish by going up to the massive glue-in bolt, clipping it, and climbing directly past it. Aug 16, 2009
mike moore
las vegas, nv
mike moore   las vegas, nv
As of Sept. 13, 2009, this route has seen some bolt replacement. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts, which were spinners and had rusted, have been repleced with 1/2 x 6 in. bolts and FIXE hangers. The anchors, which were loose (one was stripped) and had chain links that were wearning thin due to excessive top-roping and lowering, have also been replaced. All hardware is courtesy of the A.R.I. Sep 12, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
Oh shit! Thanks to Mike Moore and the ARI! Unless more of us get involved I think sport will become more dangerous than trad as many of our country's older lines are due for a renovation... Sep 17, 2009
dnoB ekiM
dnoB ekiM  
This is mis-sorted it is two to the left of the Heavy Hitter...aka...just right of Friend. Bottom right from left to right (entrance) is Idiot Parade, Foe, Friend, Nightmare on Crude Street, Hips Don't Lie, Heavy Hitter, She's Deadly, M&M, Michael Angelo, Psychobilly, Burros Might Fly, Burros Don't Gamble, Adoption Sep 8, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
What a blast climbing up those huge holds! The crux moves on smaller holds are a ton of fun as well. Great climb. Nov 24, 2014
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
So fun, jug haul to a pleasant technical crimp roof. Mar 11, 2015
Chase D
Chase D  
I agree this route is 5.10d. Feels like 5.9 climbing up the huecos with a tough crux at the bulge near the top. iirc a high left foot will help get you over the bulge. Jan 7, 2016
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
In my opinion the perfect example of a climb for the 5.10 grade Apr 5, 2016
Andre H.
Andre H.   Boulder
Thank you, Mr. Bridwell, for chiming in with your seminal opinion on the rating of a rock climb. How could we ever forget about the "your rating" drop-down on a route. Expert opinions are the best ever.

web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos… Apr 5, 2016
Matt Wetmore
Matt Wetmore  
Killer knee bar in the huecos. Fun route! Dec 14, 2018