Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Level - Right

Adoption S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Burros Don't Gamble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burros Might Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Foe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friend S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heavy Hitter, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M & M S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Michael Angelo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightmare on Crude Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychobilly S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
She's Deadly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 6,596 total, 36/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


250 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

One of the better climbs in the corridor - It's not loose like the guide indicates. This climbs the huge hueco system directly across from the Bon- climbs. Crux is a tough step right about halfway up.

Protection

A few bolts to a lower-off.

Photos

Andre H.
Boulder
Andre H.   Boulder
Thank you, Mr. Bridwell, for chiming in with your seminal opinion on the rating of a rock climb. How could we ever forget about the "your rating" drop-down on a route. Expert opinions are the best ever.

web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos… Apr 5, 2016
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10
In my opinion the perfect example of a climb for the 5.10 grade Apr 5, 2016
Chase D
  5.10d
Chase D  
  5.10d
I agree this route is 5.10d. Feels like 5.9 climbing up the huecos with a tough crux at the bulge near the top. iirc a high left foot will help get you over the bulge. Jan 7, 2016
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
So fun, jug haul to a pleasant technical crimp roof. Mar 11, 2015
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10c
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10c
What a blast climbing up those huge holds! The crux moves on smaller holds are a ton of fun as well. Great climb. Nov 24, 2014
dnoB ekiM
  5.10c/d
dnoB ekiM  
  5.10c/d
This is mis-sorted it is two to the left of the Heavy Hitter...aka...just right of Friend. Bottom right from left to right (entrance) is Idiot Parade, Foe, Friend, Nightmare on Crude Street, Hips Don't Lie, Heavy Hitter, She's Deadly, M&M, Michael Angelo, Psychobilly, Burros Might Fly, Burros Don't Gamble, Adoption Sep 8, 2012
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10d
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10d
Oh shit! Thanks to Mike Moore and the ARI! Unless more of us get involved I think sport will become more dangerous than trad as many of our country's older lines are due for a renovation... Sep 17, 2009
mike moore
las vegas, nv
 
mike moore   las vegas, nv
 
As of Sept. 13, 2009, this route has seen some bolt replacement. The 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts, which were spinners and had rusted, have been repleced with 1/2 x 6 in. bolts and FIXE hangers. The anchors, which were loose (one was stripped) and had chain links that were wearning thin due to excessive top-roping and lowering, have also been replaced. All hardware is courtesy of the A.R.I. Sep 12, 2009
Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
We did this route recently (08/14/2009) and, since it has been re-bolted, you are now able to climb left of the original line and take advantage of a couple of serious "no hands" rests in the huecos that lead up to the the thin crux with the "slightly overhung fingerlock". I guess this is why the route has been given an easier grade and we felt that the 5.10b grade was spot on. You can still do the original direct finish by going up to the massive glue-in bolt, clipping it, and climbing directly past it. Aug 16, 2009
scottydo
ventura, ca
  5.10d
scottydo   ventura, ca
  5.10d
Just did this route back in March. Awesome route and crux is definitely 4/5 of the way up. Apr 11, 2009
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
i agree with matt. i was pretty pumped at the top so those crimps seem harder. Mar 6, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c/d
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c/d
Fun, all positive route. Feb 23, 2007
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10d
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10d
I disagree with the newer rating. The moves off the crimps to pull the buldge near the top are .10d. In my opinion, the easy heucos up to that point aren't enough reason for the downgrade. Apr 20, 2006
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.10b
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.10b
This climb is rated 5.10b in Roxanna's new book...it looks like the bolt line was chopped and move a little left. The crux is currently about 4/5 the way up, at the top of the heucos, on a slightly overhung fingerlock. Super fun route, if you are in the Black Corridor, this one is a must do! Awesome kneebar move behind a large flake/heuco feature! Apr 1, 2006