Type: Trad, 1420 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Joe French, Caleb Padgett, Zach Lee. Feb 2009
Page Views: 14,091 total · 145/month
Shared By: javi Lujan on Aug 21, 2012 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Tatooine ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly Green Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equipped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxes @ p1p2p9p12
P1(1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem
P2continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor
P3-(100')5.11 hands for about 50' then 5.10 about 50'
P4-(60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge
P5(200') shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!
P6 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt
P7 a little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor
P8 (bottom of 8 to ledge 200')continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right
P9 then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro
to 2 bolt anchor.
P10 traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor
p11 face climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack
p12 chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney
P13 climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system that leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge
P14 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor
p15 go left of p14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')

Location

Mt. Kinesava

Protection

3ea .5"-3"
2ea 3.5"
1ea 4"-4.5"
2 extra 1-1.5"
2 extra 3"
nuts
2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)

Photos