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Routes in Mt. Kinesava

Cowboy Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tatooine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 1420 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Joe French, Caleb Padgett, Zach Lee. Feb 2009
Page Views: 9,107 total · 130/month
Shared By: javi on Aug 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

Tatoween ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly reen Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equiped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxs @ p1p2p9p12
P1(1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem
P2continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor
P3-(100')5.11 hands for about 50'then 5.10 about 50'
P4-(60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge
P5(200') shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!
P6 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt
P7 a little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor
P8 (bottom of 8 to ledge 200')continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right
P9 then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro
to 2 bolt anchor.
P10 traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor
p11 face climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack
p12 chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney
P13 climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system tha leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge
P14 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor
p15 go left of p14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')

Location [Edit]

Mt. Kinesava

Protection [Edit]

3ea .5"-3"
2ea 3.5"
1ea 4"-4.5"
2 extra 1-1.5"
2 extra 3"
2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
This is a fantastic line. The climbing is varied and sustained. This wall is HOT. We established it over the course of a few weeks in January. When the daytime temps were in the high 50's we were climbing in t-shirts. The bivy ledge is prime and stays much warmed than the canyon below. The last pitch is likely in the 5.10 range, don't get your hopes up thinking you have an easy 5.5 to the top. This route deserves more traffic and is surprisingly clean and (relatively) moderate considering its length and steepness of the wall. Aug 23, 2012
What a line! Matty VB and I climbed it on 12/13/12. We got away with doubles from blue metolius to BD 3, with one BD 4 and a purple metolius with extra finger sizes (yellow metolius to red metolius). We were able to link p1/2 (extend under roof), p4/5 (with some simuling and a stance belay), p 8/9, an p13/14 (plan for rope drag).

Approach: chinle trail to huber wash, walk up the wash until it starts getting really blocky and steep. Look for cairns on the right, follow them up the steep dirt/sand slope until you're above the springdale band. Then head left, crossing over the wash, and up a spine of dirt towards the second huge buttress left of king's corner. Reverse to descend. About 2-3 hours.

Descent: We did single rope raps from the summit to the top of guidebook p11. Tat around blocks, etc. makes this possible. Be careful on the rap from the top of p11 to the top of p9; there is some rope eating varnish. From there, the raps are pretty good double rope raps.

All in all, a sweet climb.

Also, the rope tat on the summit rap needs to be replaced soon. Dec 13, 2012
steven sadler
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Do you need to permit to bivy on this route?

edit: From what I've been able to find no permit is required to bivy on this route. Could someone verify this information? Feb 4, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park. Feb 5, 2013
anybody got a topo? Feb 17, 2013
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Wow, excellent line! Lots of sustained crack climbing with a bit of face thrown in the mix. I felt that this line was much more demanding than Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, which is the same length and grade (albeit on granite). Without much trouble, we did the route in 10 pitches with a 60M, linking the ST pitches as follows: 1&2, 3&4, 5, 6, 7, 8&9, 10&11, 12, 13&14 (rope drag!), 15. 6&7 might also link, but it'd be one hell of a burly pitch done that way. Route goes pretty quickly if linking. As for gear, the OP description is a verbatim copy from the guidebook, and WAY overkill. Ideal rack - doubles from blue TCU to blue Camalot, single #4, no stoppers. We had triples in fingers, and never placed them, and I wouldn't consider either of us particularly bold climbers. An extra 2 or 3 camalot would be nice for the 5.10 hands P3 if you don't want to walk those pieces a loooong ways. A great sunny winter wall! Dec 22, 2014
Adam Pecan
Moab, UT
Adam Pecan   Moab, UT
Fun route! T shirts all day with clear skies and a nice breeze in the beginning of March. Links well in 9 pitches. 6 and 7 link well with a 70 as long as you plan for the traverse. Mar 13, 2015
Michael Logan
Carbondale, CO
Michael Logan   Carbondale, CO
As I was drooling over this route, my nine year old son, who is a star wars nut, glanced at the screen and informed me that the spelling of this route name is incorrect. He tells me that Tatooine is in the outer rim and that it is spelled TATOOINE. Glad to contribute this vital beta. Mar 27, 2015
Do people usually do this route in one or two days? Apr 28, 2015
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
This route has been climbed in a day. But with the 2-3 hr approach and 14 pitches of climbing many parties will want an extra day. For those needing extra time bivying at the base or the spacious ledge at P5 is probably the best bet. Apr 29, 2015
Uhhh.... Tatooine is spelled Tatooine. Jan 26, 2016
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Maybe they were listening to lots of Chocolate and Cheese while watching Star Wars? Mar 5, 2016
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Sure, Tatooine is a fictional planet part of a binary star system (not to mention the home of the Skywalker clan...) but I think this route is called Tatoween and should therefore be called Tatoween. Mar 6, 2016
climbed in Feb. before closures- top notch! Ethan and Richardss gear beta above right on. I am not a particularly bold climber and found the crack was varied enough that this was more than an adequate rack- even when linking pitches.
also, I would have to be running to do the approach in 2 hours! Apr 14, 2016
Danger-Russ Gordon   Orem UT
how reasonable is it to French free/aid some of the crux sections? I would love to do this route, but might take longer than most, how likely is it that I would be in the way of some more able free climber on the crux sections? Jan 5, 2017
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
My ropegun has done this route. He assured me that I could get my dusty ass up it, as it was on my list after the guidebook came out. As long as you're not out there on a college break weekend, you'll most likely be the only one's on the route. Post up if you go! Jan 6, 2017
Seth Maciejowski
Seth Maciejowski  
Sweet route! Two punters from Vermont lacking in the crack climbing department sent and had a great experience! We thought a pitch by pitch grade might be helpful since the guidebook is a bit "nebulous" about the grades on a few of the pitches and this route has a lot more in store then you would expect from the book descriptions particularly on the upper pitches...
P1 : 11a technical
P2: 10b short n' steep
P3: 10d steep long hands...
P4: 5.8 to tree
P5; 5.9 thru third class to bivi ledge a smidge wide in spots
P6: 10+ techy stems/ lie back jams to ghost belay
P7 10+ techy stems to hard pull left to 5.8 crack and stem
P8: 10+ steep lay away jamming
P9: 10c chicken heads
P10 : 10c steep fingers but short
P11 ; 10d fingers plus techy stems
P12: 11a steep fingers
P13 : 10b fingers to sandy traverse and 5.6 chimney on boxcar
P14: 5.10b right hand corner to short pure 5.9 ow
P15 : 10a 5.9 hands to 10a corner to slippery sandy 5.9+ Scary. Move belay into chimney to make this 160' long
We linked 1&2 and 8&9 and bivied on top of p5. Gear descriptions above a pretty accurate Feb 3, 2017
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
A note for the next team on the route that reads this: If the blue rope is still at the tree on top of P4, I strongly recommend carrying it to the top of the climb to replace the junk show that is the first rappel. Currently, that anchor is a tied off tree (about 25 feet from the edge of the cliff) with a mess of core strands splayed about that is equalized with new webbing (~10') we added that's just tied to the rope above the coreshot. It would be a good community service to get that blue cord up there and carry the trashed tat down. I would have had I known. Have fun up there!!! Feb 17, 2017
Caleb Padgett
Rockville, utah
Caleb Padgett   Rockville, utah
I would be thrilled if the rappel station at the top of the route was bolted along with the rap off the tree at the 4th pitch. We tried our best to avoid any nylon at anchors, I knew the anchor on top was going to get hammered and require a lot of material to replace. Anyhow I am super happy people are getting on this route and enjoying it. Feb 17, 2017
Thomas Gilmore
Golden, CO
Thomas Gilmore   Golden, CO
There is a ring tailed cat (not really a cat) who lives at the base of the route. He's friendly and cute but thinks he owns your food. Don't forget to hang your food and trash.. Feb 18, 2017
Andrew Andraski
St. George, UT
Andrew Andraski   St. George, UT
Thoughts on climbing this in early October? Still too hot to enjoy a single day attempt on the route? Can anyone share info on when the wall goes into the sun? Sep 16, 2017
A Kathryn  
I agree that this was harder than Positive Vibrations, but just as classic. We easily linked 1-2 and 10-11. We were very thankful to Brandon for leaving the blue rope on p4. We carried it to the summit and replaced the very tattered rope. Unfortunately, the rope groves on the edge you rap over were so intense that our ropes wouldn't pull (the knot kept getting stuck). We ended up having to extend the anchor over the edge, but the blue rope wasn't long enough to make it redundant =/. The rope on the p4 tree was also pretty sun baked. If you climb this, I would highly advise bringing some rope to replace/improve these repels. Also aim to leave plenty of time for the repels. 400 feet of rope in a sea of chicken heads made for some very tricky raps. Nov 7, 2017
Daniel Fullmer
Pagosa Springs
Daniel Fullmer   Pagosa Springs
Biking in with a trailer? hoping to rope solo the route and wanted to cut down on the amount of hiking with a 100lb pack. How far could I get in riding a moutain bike pulling a bob trailer? Nov 16, 2017
Melissa Clutter
Tucson, AZ
Melissa Clutter   Tucson, AZ
A fun adventure!!
I wouldn't recommend bivying on the ledge. Just bivy at the base and do it all in one day. Maybe bring some emergency bivy supplies to leave on the ledge if you are worried about it.
Also, be sure to bring lots of extra tat for the raps. Most of the trees are extended, but the tat gets baked in the sun due to the southern exposure. Makes for safer raps and cleaner rope pulls.

I am with A Kathryn, lots of stuck ropes on the raps. Just be mentally prepared for it. Especially if you are rapping in the dark.
Here is a short video of our adventures on Tatooine. The climbing was the easy part of it! Dec 30, 2017

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