Type: Trad, 1420 ft (430 m), 15 pitches, Grade V
GPS: 37.1978, -113.0308
FA: Joe French, Caleb Padgett, Zach Lee. Feb 2009
Page Views: 21,444 total · 125/month
Shared By: javi Lujan on Aug 21, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tatooine ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly Green Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equipped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxes @ p1p2p9p12

P1: (1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem

P2: Continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor

P3: (100') 5.11 hands for about 50' then 5.10 about 50'

P4: (60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge

P5: (200') Shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!

P6: 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt

P7: A little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor

P8: (bottom of 8 to ledge 200') Continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right

P9: Then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro to 2 bolt anchor.

P10:  Traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor

P11: Cace climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack

P12: Chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney

P13 Climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system that leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge

P14: 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor

P15: Go left of P14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')

Location Suggest change

Mt. Kinesava

Protection Suggest change

3ea .5"-3"
2ea 3.5"
1ea 4"-4.5"
2 extra 1-1.5"
2 extra 3"
nuts
2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)

Descent Suggest change

Rappel with 2 ropes.

We rapped with double ropes down to the top of Pitch 4, from which we rapped three more times with a single rope.

  • Rap from P13: rap the way you climbed
  • You can rap with a single 70m from tops of P14, P4, P3, P2

Photos

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