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Routes in Provo Canyon Ice

Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Lowe and partner 1971
Page Views: 2,150 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Ross on Nov 4, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Two long pitches of ice.

P1 (WI5): Steep and sustained. Build own anchor if anchor bolts are covered with ice.

P2 (WI4-5): Climb a series of steps to trees.

Descent: Double rope rappel from webbing on trees. If P1 anchors are not covered with ice it is possible to descend with a single 70m rope with two rappels.

Check avalanche conditions before climbing in this area.
Massive avalanches rip down this drainage nearly every year.

Location

First tongue of ice to the right of Bridal Veil Falls.

Protection

Pro: Ice screws, webbing, and anchor material
Rope: Double ropes best. Can be done with a single 70m rope, but if the P1 anchors are covered with ice be prepared to leave screws/ice-threads behind for the second rappel.

Photos

John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
 
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
 
The bolted P1 rap anchors often get covered with ice later in the season. When that happens, climbers using a single 70m rope need to be prepared to build an ice anchor part way down for the second rappel. This is also why it is not uncommon to collect "booty" ice screws off of this route. Dec 19, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
There are bolted rap anchors to the right as you top out the first curtain. They're within a couple feet of the anchors for the top of Bridal Veil Right.

Quite a mess of tat on two different trees as you top the tongue of ice on lookers right. I think I also saw some tat on trees for lookers left, closer to the falls themselves.

A single 70m rope will get you down in two rappels. Dec 17, 2013
climb the first pitch to the top of the bottom waterfall (200'), then walk up Bridalveil Creek to the upper fall for another pitch of knarly WI5+. Top out, hike west on the ledge to a large fir tree and a short (20') rap to the cliff's edge. Under the lip is a set of rap anchors. From here, 200' to the base of the upper waterfall, then hike west to the top of White Nightmare, where it's 200' to reach the ground. Dec 16, 2007