Avg: 3.5 from 155 votes
Routes in Aeolian Wall
|Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3|
|Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1|
|Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X|
|Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 2000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||George Urioste, Mike Clifford, Sam Pratt and Bill Hotz.|
|Page Views:||32,807 total, 195/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Conrad on Feb 9, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionInti Watana is an excellent face and crack climb. Although there are bolts on most pitches, it is not a sport climb. This climb is grade V if Combined with the upper portion of resolution arete. If anyone has first ascent info, please post.
Approach mount wilson from the old oak creek campground. Look for gully with a red and white rock cliff at the base. Continue up and around this and into the gully with cairns. When you reach a large pine tree go around to the left and up gully with a massive chock stone. Tunnel under the chock stone and look up to the right for bolts on the first pitch.
P1- Follow bolts up rock that climbs much better than it looks (5.10-).
P2- The crux of the route. Continue up the beautiful and intimidating head wall past many bolts to a belay stance (5.10+).
P3 through P9- Many pitches up to (5.9) in difficulty. Mixed gear and bolted climbing. One pitch is long and has no bolts on it.
P10- Climb up past many bolts on the the overhanging wall. The position is amazing on this pitch (5.9).
P11- Short pitch up past more bolts (5.9).
P12- The last pitch of the route. Continue up through an overhang and crack to the top of the pillar(5.9+).
From here the last part of resolution arete may be climbed or rappel the route. Bring some extra webbing for the rappel. If continuing to the top of Mount Wilson descend to a saddle and drop into first creek. This descent seems to have never ending gully travel. Once out of first creek walk the road back to the car.