Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Jeff Achey 9/84
Page Views: 14,036 total · 67/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 19, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This long and sustained route is one of the longest, and perhaps finer hand-to-fist climbs in Indian Creek. The summit is awesome! The King Of Pain is a tower with a set of twin summits and is the tallest of all of the Bridger Jack towers, other than the Butte itself. It is easily twice the size of the Sparkling Touch, Thumbelina, or Sunflower towers, and almost 3 times the size of Easter Island.

Vision Quest climbs a majority of its length up or near the dihedral system that splits the two towers on the East side. Details are as follows:

P1: Around to the right of the base, on the north tower's east face side, you will see a .75-1.5" fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb this to its top, then move over to the left to the base of a big slot, and belay at the fixed station. (10c)

P2: From the previously mentioned belay, climb a pumpy hand-to-fist crack up for about 100' to another fixed anchor to belay. The overhanging section may be the physical crux of the route. (10d)

P3: From the fixed belay, start up again in another crack that is wide-hands to fists through a bulge for the technical crux of the route. (10d)

P4: Climb up through some big blocks to an area between where the two summits split, and up onto the face on the right (north summit). This pitch is the psychological crux of the route, and while it is 10a max, it is poorly protected with a few equalized cams in a sandy flare below your feet while summitting on sandy slopers. A fall would be ill-advised.

Descend by a set of fixed raps on double ropes on the east face north of the route- do not attempt to combine raps, and beware of stuck ropes as they are common on this route.

Protection

A good selection of cams, including at least one #4 camalot. Go heavy on the 1" and on the 2.5-3.5". A wide piece or two may be useful to provide peace of mind toward the top.

Photos