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Routes in Intensive Care Slab

CDFT Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intensive Care T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shock Trauma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lance Bateman, Jim Reynolds, Nolan Wall - 1996
Page Views: 1,381 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. Details

Description

Slab supreme.

Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step left off of the dike to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it.

The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aiming for the tree at the base of the wide crack. Do not feel that you need to go in a straight line as this will make it harder.

Once you gain the tree area there will be one more difficult move up a sloped mantle. Get in the crack. Wide, rough, and very fun with the odd chickenhead.

If you want to skip the second pitch, the first pitch is 5.10b (bolts only) and great in it's own right.

Location

In a thicket of trees at the east end of the Intensive Care Slab

Protection

5 bolts on the first pitch, 2 more on the second. Wider gear for the crack. Slings around the tree for the rappel. 60 meter rope preferred for the rappel. 50 meter will work but watch your ends. Rappel off the right edge.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
The first pitch is one of the best .10 slabs in the Wasatch. For the .10 slab climber, it makes a really great day to do the Fin Arete and then this on the way down. It'll feel like the bolts are super close together! The coolest dyke in the canyon. Sep 25, 2006
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Did as Tenesmus suggests and climbed the first pitch after coming down from The Fin Arete. Definitely worth it.

Second pitch looks kinda hard :-) Apr 24, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
This is a nice finish to the day on the way down from the Fin. Very close bolts so not at all scary. Both pitches as well as the one off to the right on the other side of Intensive care are aout 5.10 Jun 28, 2010
I scouted this with Lance after climbing Intensive Care. I placed the bolts on two separate trips (one with Lance and one with Nolan) in 1996. We all thought the dike looked awesome and it turned out we were right. The first belay was placed so that either a) the second pitch could be led or b) the route could lead right into the second pitch of Intensive Care after clipping one bolt. Nov 8, 2013
dnaiscool  
 
Agreed...That first pitch is Most Excellent. But the second one...mehh...weird line, crumpling molds, unaesthetic.

I'd do the first pitch over and over again, but that second one can rust away into obscurity...IMO.

You can rap over to the first pitch of Intensive Care from P1 top of this route, clip the first bolt on the first pitch through yer rope, and then you can lead IC without having to worry about hitting the Granite Hammer in a fall getting to that clip...
However.......That's Cheating....I guess, but who cares, just be honest.. Apr 22, 2015

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