Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Lance Bateman, Jim Reynolds, Nolan Wall - 1996
Page Views: 1,758 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. Details

Description

Slab supreme.

Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step left off of the dike to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it.

The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aiming for the tree at the base of the wide crack. Do not feel that you need to go in a straight line as this will make it harder.

Once you gain the tree area there will be one more difficult move up a sloped mantle. Get in the crack. Wide, rough, and very fun with the odd chickenhead.

If you want to skip the second pitch, the first pitch is 5.10b (bolts only) and great in it's own right.

Location

In a thicket of trees at the east end of the Intensive Care Slab

Protection

5 bolts on the first pitch, 2 more on the second. Wider gear for the crack. Slings around the tree for the rappel. 60 meter rope preferred for the rappel. 50 meter will work but watch your ends. Rappel off the right edge.

Photos