Avg: 3.5 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Lance Bateman, Jim Reynolds, Nolan Wall - 1996|
|Page Views:||1,962 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Fisher on Sep 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step left off of the dike to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it.
The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aiming for the tree at the base of the wide crack. Do not feel that you need to go in a straight line as this will make it harder.
Once you gain the tree area there will be one more difficult move up a sloped mantle. Get in the crack. Wide, rough, and very fun with the odd chickenhead.
If you want to skip the second pitch, the first pitch is 5.10b (bolts only) and great in it's own right.