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Aeolian Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Aeolian Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cactus Joe's Connection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Evolution Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1
	Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jedi Mind Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
	Lady Wilson's Bush T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Original Sin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Pagan Sacrifice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
	Salami Wand Kenobi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2 R
	Taco Tuesday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
	Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wind God Tower, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	5,501 ft	1,677 m
GPS:	36.09485, -115.48188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	phil broscovak on Mar 5, 2004 · Updates
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The Aeolian Wall is the unmistakable and massive diamond-shaped feature that comprises the entire right side of Mt. Wilson. Bounded on the left side by the prominent Resolution Arete and on the right side by Wind God Tower, this awesome wall terminates at the summit proper. The Aeolian Wall is the site of the "Original Route" on Mt. Wilson, the Aeolian Wall V 5.9 A3. Done by Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton in 1975. For those curious about the name, an Aeolian is a harp that produces musical sounds when the wind blows across the strings. A resonant experience for many Red Rocks aficionados to be sure.

Getting There

Park at the South oak creek parking lot and walk the path until you reach the saddle between the Pimple and Wilson. From here continue 80 paces downhill and turn left on a well-cairned trail that works it's way up a ridge to reach a red cliff band.

The opening of the Aeolian gully is blocked by the red cliff band so we make for white rot gully which is the only real break in the cliff band. (You can avoid white rot on the descent by descending Aeolian gully, making 2 single rope raps at the bottom)When you reach the red cliff band, walk left until you see white rot gully which breaks through the red cliff.

Continue up white rot (pulling some 4th class moves) until you pass under a huge chockstone and climb left (easy 5th with a marginal hand rope) continue climbing until you can go over the ridge to access the Aeolian gully.

From here continue up, climbing over so many boulders, following occasional cairns that mostly keep you along the left side wall.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Aeolian Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 4 ● Lady Wilson's Bush Trad 13 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 78 ● Resolution Arete Trad, Aid 24 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 421 ● Inti Watana Trad 12 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 29 ● Gift of the Wind Gods Trad 10 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● The Wicked Trad 15 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2 R 4 ● Salami Wand Kenobi Trad, Aid 14 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 58 ● Woman of Mountain Dreams Trad 17 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 4 ● Cactus Connection Trad 3 pitches