Type: Trad, Aid, 2000 ft, 13 pitches, Grade V
FA: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Nov 2018
Page Views: 349 total · 46/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Nov 10, 2018
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a committing route up one of the coolest lines on the mountain. It is not your typical red rock experience. I gave it three stars, but don't expect a black velvet day, 1 star for adventure, 1 for aesthetics, and 1 for commitment. The rock quality overall is pretty good, the stone on the upper headwall is immaculate, but the overhanging pitches down low are plagued by some loose rock. While the rock quality is totally manageable from an aid perspective, these pitches would need considerable work to be freed. When cleaned up it will likely go in the 11+/12- range and will sport a couple radically overhanging crack pitches.
P1 5.9 150 ft; start up the mossy hand crack, turn left at a easy gully, follow this to a huge tree to belay.
Scramble up to your right for about 500 ft. Aim for the obvious splitter original route, once in the basin below the two routes cut left through a thick patch of scrub oak. The next pitch goes up the dirty chimney above.
P2 5.10 160 ft; climb the "garbage chute" chimney up to the huge chockstones, climb up to the right of the first one (5.10 or C1) then step to the left for the second stone. This pitch is 5.8 C1 if aiding the chockstone move
P3 5.7 C1 70 ft; Continue up the corner, aid the .1 crack to its top then do a 30 ft tension traverse to the right. 5.7 face climbing over here brings you to a good belay ledge below "kevin's hole"
P4 5.9 A2 120 ft; Start by climbing into kevin's hole. Free climbing leads you up to a steep splitter. Climb this splitter up to a roof, a couple hook moves brings you to the obvious and aesthetic right facing splitter. Follow this to a sweet belay ledge. (i placed 2 arrows, a #3 beak, and a #1 blade on this pitch)
P5 5.9 C2 100 ft; Start up the awesome flare, pull some fraid moves past the lip of the roof and continue mixed awkward aid and funky free up the flaring chimney to a stance beneath a right facing corner.
P6 5.10 130 ft; Climb up the corner with a mix of corner climbing and face climbing on the arete. The grade may go up or down when the bushes are removed. At about halfway up the corner step left and climb an awesome seam on the face to a good belay ledge in an alcove.
P7 5.10 170 ft; Stem up the shallow right facing corner until face climbing leads you up to the left trending seam above. Awesome thin face climbing brings you up to a small roof. Start a crazy and super runout traverse using the lip of this roof as a foot rail. Run it out horizontally to the right for about 60 ft until you hit a seam that has some gear, or belay in the huecos to the left.
P8 5.9R 130 ft; Thus begins your vision quest. Careful route-finding through these upper pitches may find you potentially easier/better protected climbing and poor routefinding will find you strung out and gripped. Climb the face or the groove to start, either way you will make your way into the groove to find some gear, climb this up to a bulge, then traverse left at a diagonal about 60/70 ft with limited gear to a seam to the left of the large obvious mossy groove. Creative hanging belay here with micro cams/rps
P9 5.9R 200 ft; Friggin awesome pitch. Climb the seam straight above until it slabs out. A left trending crack looms above, climb the runout slab up to the base of the crack for a belay.
P10 5.10a 210 ft; start up the left trending crack, when it gets steep, step left for some awesome face climbing. Weave your way up the face until the headwall above gets close. Find a wide horizontal weakness that leads to your left (through a mossy groove) and follow this around the corner with crazy exposure to the base of a low angle splitter, youve run out of rope, so belay here.
P11 5.4 100 ft; follow the slabby ramp and rambling ledgey terrain until you reach the "catwalk" on resolution arete.
P12/13 300 ft; climb the last 2 pitches for resolution arete. Then simul, pitch out, or solo the remaining 500ft of ridgeline to the summit of Wilson.

Descent: The best descent off Wilson is oak creek.

Location

Jedi Mind Tricks climbs the right facing corner to the left of the original route. Follow the standard white rot approach. When you get to the inti watana gully, continue up the drainage as if approaching woman of mt dreams. after only a couple minutes you'll see a feint trail and a large panel of rock with an obvious water streak on the left. The route starts up the mossy hand crack to the left of the water streak. This pitch is described as an "approach" pitch for the original route. 1.5 hrs

Protection

Double rack from .1 to 3 (triple .2 if you like to sew it up on aid). Single 4,5,6. Single set of offset nuts including brass. The smallest 2 ballnuts were helpful but not necessary. A couple arrows (#1 and #2), a #3 beak and a couple talon hooks will suffice for iron. Hauling on this route sucks for the most part, avoid if possible.

Photos