Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Aeolian Wall
|Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3|
|Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1|
|Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X|
|Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tony Bubb, Alex Thayer, 3/06|
|Page Views:||1,231 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThanatos was the opposite of Eros according to Freud- this hypothetical instinct freud said was every man's subconscious drive to death and destruction, lthough modern psychology does not register this on the 16 fundimental motivations of man.
This climb starts up the E-facing (lower left) arete of the Ant-Willie tower.
P1: 5.9 R (5.6x)
Climb pockets and slopers up the arete for about 15 meters, them move slightly right onto the face and continue on pockets. The climbing is about 5.8R and is X-rated at a lower standard (probably 5.6) at least without tricams or a lot of fiddling. We had only a light rack for Woman Of Mt Dreams on this route, so perhaps I could have taken more/better gear. A few decent threads and cams in holes were found that protected a significant amount of climbing, but there were certainly areas with groundfall potential. Move up to lower angle rock and finish on slopers at ~110 feet. You will belay at the base of a set of good cracks on trad gear.
P2: 5.10 R/X
CLimb up the cracks (5.10-) on good gear, staying mostly with the one on the left, although the one on the right provides holds as necessary to climb at the 5.9+/10- level. This is well-protected. Continue up the left crack to its end and climb the face above on sparse and questionable gear for some more considerable distance (5.10, R/X). A good set of nuts and small cams might make this R-rated only, but on the meager rack we had for the FA, the route was X-rated for sure. Edges on plates and puzzle-pieces accounted for most of the holds, but the occasional sloper was used. The route was only lightly cleaned, breaking off edges only as needed to stand, cling, or protect. The route still has potential for breaking holds. Finish the crux of the route as the plates start to run out the wall turns slightly past vertical- mantle onto some last plates and stand at the bottom of a less-than vertical red wall. Work right to the arete and step up and right around into the chimney (5.10 R/X) and up to a ledge with a belay/rap anchor. (3 good nuts tied off on a cordalette)
A third pitch can be done to reach the summit, however, it requires down-climbing back to the lower ledge. From there you can rap to the ground on 2X 70M ropes or get within feet of the ground ( on 2X 60M ropes and hop or scramble down.
LocationTo find this route first find the cave on the approach to Inti Wantana. Just left of there, and particularly as viewed from 'the saddle' or 'pass' on the approach to Woman Of Mountain Dreams or Gift of the Wind Gods, just above, one can see a salient buttress just right of this cave. This is what Alex dubbed the 'Anti-Willie' tower. I will let him explain that though...
From the pass, the upper half of the route Thanatos can be seen. It is a crack and face climb up the NE facing aspect of the route.