Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tony Bubb, Alex Thayer, 3/06|
|Page Views:||1,664 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This climb starts up the E-facing (lower left) arete of the Ant-Willie tower.
P1: 5.9 R (5.6x)
Climb pockets and slopers up the arete for about 15 meters, them move slightly right onto the face and continue on pockets. The climbing is about 5.8R and is X-rated at a lower standard (probably 5.6) at least without tricams or a lot of fiddling. We had only a light rack for Woman Of Mt Dreams on this route, so perhaps I could have taken more/better gear. A few decent threads and cams in holes were found that protected a significant amount of climbing, but there were certainly areas with groundfall potential. Move up to lower angle rock and finish on slopers at ~110 feet. You will belay at the base of a set of good cracks on trad gear.
P2: 5.10 R/X
CLimb up the cracks (5.10-) on good gear, staying mostly with the one on the left, although the one on the right provides holds as necessary to climb at the 5.9+/10- level. This is well-protected. Continue up the left crack to its end and climb the face above on sparse and questionable gear for some more considerable distance (5.10, R/X). A good set of nuts and small cams might make this R-rated only, but on the meager rack we had for the FA, the route was X-rated for sure. Edges on plates and puzzle-pieces accounted for most of the holds, but the occasional sloper was used. The route was only lightly cleaned, breaking off edges only as needed to stand, cling, or protect. The route still has potential for breaking holds. Finish the crux of the route as the plates start to run out the wall turns slightly past vertical- mantle onto some last plates and stand at the bottom of a less-than vertical red wall. Work right to the arete and step up and right around into the chimney (5.10 R/X) and up to a ledge with a belay/rap anchor. (3 good nuts tied off on a cordalette)
A third pitch can be done to reach the summit, however, it requires down-climbing back to the lower ledge. From there you can rap to the ground on 2X 70M ropes or get within feet of the ground ( on 2X 60M ropes and hop or scramble down.
From the pass, the upper half of the route Thanatos can be seen. It is a crack and face climb up the NE facing aspect of the route.