Type: Trad, Aid, 2000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Joe Herbst, Larry Hamilton 1975
Page Views: 2,887 total · 26/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on May 24, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A historic and bold route for its time, the Aeolian Wall remains a seldom climbed testpiece of Red Rock climbing. Despite being one of the parks oldest routes it has seen only a handful of ascents over the 35 years since it was established. One can only imagine what Hamilton and Herbst must have been thinking going up this foreboding wall in a time before cams & high angle rescues.

The adventure aficionado will enjoy a route much unchanged from those times. A few bold & spectacular aid pitches on mostly solid rock eventually give way to more moderate but varied climbing above. Rock quality varies significantly but is generally of decent quality. This odyssey through the bowels of lady Wilson is an experience few undertake but rewards those who endure with an unforgettable experience that no pullout climb can provide.

Approach
Just up the gulley from the Resolution Arete the approach requires climbing up a mossy crack on the left-hand side of a water-streaked slab. Climb this crack to a small shrub and then move left on easier terrain to reach the large ledge system below the route. Continue back right up ramps to the base of the unmistakable vertical wall with the large left facing corner.

Pitch 1 5.9 120ft
Climb flakes in the corner past some loose rock near the corner to a new looking 2 bolt anchor. (Old threaded slings nearby)

Pitch 2 5.9 A2 150ft
From the anchor, move right to the chimney climbing past a star-drive bolt. Free climb and aid the chimney and taking a nice crack leading onto the right face. Belay at a stance with hand sized gear about 20ft below a bolt above.

Pitch 3 5.9 A3 190ft
Continue up the corner past a bolt into a knifeblade seam. At the roof move right on 4 original bolts and then continue out the roof on knifeblades (A3 exciting and airy). Pull the lip, clip another ancient bolt and continue up 5.9/A1 cracks to a claustrophobic chimney with fixed bong in back.

Pitch 4 - 5.8 - 110ft
Continue out the chimney and up cracks to the Crotch ledge. Good bivy for 3+.

Pitch 5 - 5.8 - 195ft
Take a chimney that moves up & angles left into a slab. Climb the slab past a bolt to a cool cave-like ledge. Good bivy for 4+.

Pitch 6-7 - 5.8 - 220-260ft
Take yet another nice chimney above with sparse protection to a ledge.

Pitch 7 - 5.8 - 190ft
From the ledge climb a small step through bushes and up a 4-6 inch crack. At a convenient point traverse right into the next gulley system over (Lots of options).

Pitch 8-9 - 5.9 - 100-250ft
Move up the gulley system through a series of ledges and chimneys to reach a saddle (near Resolution Arete). Belay from trees/bushes.

Pitch 10-13 - 3rd class
Turn right (west) and move up generally the left side of the rock towers near the top to gain the summit ridge.

Descent:
Take Oak or First Creek descents

Location

Approach is same as resolution arete except continue up the gulley. A mossy 5.9 crack must be surmounted to achieve the large ledge system leading to the base of the route.

Protection

A standard rack of doubles to #3 camalot, 1 x #4, 1 x #5,
Nuts - 1 set,
3 lost arrows,
1-2 angles,
6-9 knifeblades,
optional - 1 hook, Offset cams/nuts

Photos