5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British C1
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2200 ft (667 m), 16 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Boyce - Chapko Feb 2022|
|Page Views:||307 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Boyce on Feb 14, 2022|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
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HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
This route follows a major water streak and weakness on the left third of the wall. It climbs 5 independent pitches to then gain cheeseburgers. The climbing is adventurous and only occasionally mossy. There is quite a bit of very steep and wild feeling stemming. “Quality” is what you make of it, someone who would choose to do this route would likely enjoy it. Approach as for cheeseburgers and the original route. Head up to the inti watana gully then continue for just a couple more minutes, find an obvious water streak on your left, start up the shallow, mossy right facing corner. This pitch is described as an approach pitch for the original route.
P1 180’ 5.9 right facing mossy crack trend left up ramp to large ledge, belay off huge tree
P2 60’ 5.0 head up easy slabs from the tree and traverse onto a massive ledge with a comfy bivy.
P3 170’ 5.10- slabby moves up the water groove past cool cracks into a chimney, eventually step right to good ledge on face (belay takes .3-2)
P4 120’ 5.10 up into the deep featured chimney, crazy exit out of the chimney to steep stemming, pull a couple bulges to a large sloping ledge (belay takes thread, micro cams and 1-3. This is a tricky anchor, I had 7 pieces in. To avoid this anchor you can continue up the runout move on the next pitch and belay off of 2 #5’s)
P5 130’ 5.10+ spooky moves past a bongo (5.10- R) pillar into a Bombay. Pull the roof, mossy and hard (the “Wilson overhang”). Steep 3D climbing takes you up to a nice featured finger crack (belay takes .3-.75)
P6 80’ C1 step left out of the belay alcove, steep climbing up a finger crack. Step left BELOW a large obvious block to a rappel anchor, avoid the temptation to get on the ledge above, the gear is shit and blocks tenuous. We aided this pitch as it was choked in moss. We scrapped most of it out and should make for well protected 5.11- finger crack (belay takes .2/.3 and hands.)
It is possible to rappel from this point with two ropes. First rappel is 60M straight down to the top of the “garbage chute” on Jedi mind tricks (obvious mega chockstones in gully to skiers left). Then 40M rap down the garbage chute. Scramble down to a bolted anchor for a 60M rap to the start of the route.
P7 80’ 5.9R quest leftward on sparsely protected terrain to link into the cheeseburgers crack system.
P8-16 follow dream of wild cheeseburgers then resolution arete to the summit
Descent: My favorite descent off Wilson is oak creek, pick your poison.
Approach via the white rot gully. When you get to the inti watana gully continue up as if for woman of mountain dreams. After a min or two find a trail left to an obvious water streak next to a massive cave.