Type: Trad, 2200 ft (667 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mark Jenkins, Oliver Deshler, 2010
Page Views: 88 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mark Jenkins on Dec 15, 2024
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a very long, adventuresome route that requires old-school chimney and offwidth techniques and a happy disregard for both big prickly bushes and long runouts. Alpinists only. P1-200', 5.9 mossy hands and fingers to top of buttress, belay off bush; P2-200', scramble up and left to the left-most crack, 40' right of Inti Watana; P3-170', 5.8, avoid chimney by climbing vertical finger crack on right;P4-160', 5.9, stem chimney up through mossy hand crack roof; P5-150', 5.7, stemming, handcracking through two easy roofs;P6-200', 5.6R, stem chimeny;P7-170',5.7R stem chimney, airy, go left to big bushy belay; P8-200', 5.6R, chimney, sling pack from harness; P9-200', scramble up through keyhole on right, then left up chimney circling around to top of giant white block leaning against the face; P10-200', 5.9R/X, climb straight up white face on sketchy white flakes that provide psychological pro only, past the tree on the left;P11-200', 5.9, don't go to next tree up and right, instead, climb finger crack straight up;P-12, 100', scramble straight up to big tree; P-13, 200',scramble rightward, above Aeolian Face, tree-to-tree, finally passing left through chimney to wide, cactus-covered ledge; summit, 400' hike ledge south curling up and around to saddle and summit. 

Location Suggest change

Approach: 2 hrs, hike gulley toward base of Resolution Arete and Inti Watana, pass Inti Watana ravine, continue to bushwhack up main gulley for another 100 feet. Hook left scrambling over up a broad shelf with obvious vertical crack. Looking south, you can see the ponderosa pine on the shelf at the base of Resolution Arete

Protection Suggest change

Trad gear: doubles, .5 through 5, lots of alpine draws, lots of wires, two 60m ropes

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