Lady Wilson's Bush
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Type: | Trad, 2200 ft (667 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Mark Jenkins, Oliver Deshler, 2010 |
Page Views: | 88 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Mark Jenkins on Dec 15, 2024 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a very long, adventuresome route that requires old-school chimney and offwidth techniques and a happy disregard for both big prickly bushes and long runouts. Alpinists only. P1-200', 5.9 mossy hands and fingers to top of buttress, belay off bush; P2-200', scramble up and left to the left-most crack, 40' right of Inti Watana; P3-170', 5.8, avoid chimney by climbing vertical finger crack on right;P4-160', 5.9, stem chimney up through mossy hand crack roof; P5-150', 5.7, stemming, handcracking through two easy roofs;P6-200', 5.6R, stem chimeny;P7-170',5.7R stem chimney, airy, go left to big bushy belay; P8-200', 5.6R, chimney, sling pack from harness; P9-200', scramble up through keyhole on right, then left up chimney circling around to top of giant white block leaning against the face; P10-200', 5.9R/X, climb straight up white face on sketchy white flakes that provide psychological pro only, past the tree on the left;P11-200', 5.9, don't go to next tree up and right, instead, climb finger crack straight up;P-12, 100', scramble straight up to big tree; P-13, 200',scramble rightward, above Aeolian Face, tree-to-tree, finally passing left through chimney to wide, cactus-covered ledge; summit, 400' hike ledge south curling up and around to saddle and summit.
Location
Approach: 2 hrs, hike gulley toward base of Resolution Arete and Inti Watana, pass Inti Watana ravine, continue to bushwhack up main gulley for another 100 feet. Hook left scrambling over up a broad shelf with obvious vertical crack. Looking south, you can see the ponderosa pine on the shelf at the base of Resolution Arete
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