Type: Trad, 1700 ft, 17 pitches, Grade V
FA: J. Urioste et al
Page Views: 9,668 total · 60/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The 2hr approach makes this route a well earned prize. Just keep moving west from the base of Resolution Arete til you get to the west side of Aeolian Tower. Climb straight up easy/wide cracks forming the west side of the Aeolian Tower for 3 pitches then the crux bolted pitch awaits on the main wall. Spicy and fun, the crux comes at the start of pitch 4 and it's well protected but a bit of a zig zag, since Joanne bolted it on lead with hooks! After that, it remains a steep mostly direct line that trends a bit left to top out. The very last couple pitches are a bit loose but nothing unmanageable. Get a late return ticket because you will take all day. Joanne and I started walking at 0430 from the highway and returned to the car @ 11pm. Awesome climb and lady.


Standard rack, bolted crux pitch and sprinkling of bolts on other pitches, bolted anchors and a couple trees.


I am looking to climb Woman of Mountain Dreams this November. We did Inti last year, so we are familiar with the approach, however there seems to be some disagreement among people here as to the best way down. Some people suggest the walk off down through First Creek Canyon, while others say the the Oak Creek method is better. Should I also assume that rapping Dogma is a bad idea? I have to assume that given the length of the route and the time of the year at least some of our descent will be in the dark. Give that what would be the best way down for us. Since this is likely a walk off is a single 70M a better option than 60M doubles?

Dave Jul 21, 2008
Brad Warne
Calgary, Alberta
Brad Warne   Calgary, Alberta
Rapping Dogma is probably a bad idea. We did Resolution Arete a few years ago and started the descent the same time as another group that rapped Dogma. We were back to the highway 3hrs before them. Walking is faster. Jul 22, 2008
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
Dave....walk down Oak Creek. I've done it several times and it's no big deal. I got the beta for it from Joanne who insist's that it's way better than First Creek. There is much less boulder hopping.
Also if you are fast enough you can knock ALOT of hiking off both ends by Parking at the Oak Creek trailhead. You might want to get the late exit permit.
The days are short in November!

Have fun. Aug 4, 2008
This thing is BIG! It's amazing that a route goes up that much rock at mostly 5.8/5.9. The 11 pitch and 10 pitches are IN YOUR FACE - delicate foot work - crimp step, crimp, step, crimp step. Be prepared for run-outs and climbing some of the loosest rock you'll climb - well, it's the loosest I've climbed. Knock on everything! What makes it worse - the loose climbing is the last three pitches. Views are awesome, climbing is varied and the day is long. Sep 21, 2008
Michael Layton
Sonora, CA
Michael Layton   Sonora, CA
Just got of it - we were worried about time since it's getting dark quickly but with a 4am wake up call at the campground, we were eating hot dogs and chili by 7!

The approach took a bit longer in the darkness, and the schwack past inti to the col was a bit annoying...oh well.

The 1st 3 pitches aren't bad, the next two sport pitches are well protected, but the bolt after you pull over the roof is farther than we expected. We linked the 2 pitches with a 60m after the 4th class (actually 4th class thank god) and they were full-on 10a and 5.9 with some bold climbing and pro placements. Actually everything past the 4th class pitch was pretty bold with very sporty gear and space between said gear in spots. There is a MONEY pitch - after some technical gear fiddling you're rewarded with an awesome handcrack. Also the "airy" traverse pitch with a bolt is also sweet, but it downshifts back into spicy terrain after a bitchin thin crack. The pitch that requires the "30 foot up a crack to the left, followed be another step left" that puts you in a bunch of bushes....keep going left and up another crack system over left. It puts you on a ledge and then you can face climb directly up to the bushy anchor ledge. There are hidden cracks that offer REALLY good gear.

A brilliant line you will remember for a while. I kept thinking that it was not your typical uriosite route as only one pitch was well bolted (and even those bolts were a bit more spaced than other routes of theirs). I didn't think it was loose at all and I doubt it's had enough ascents to clean up much. To those that complain about it being loose, I can offer some suggestions to make this route seem splitter :)- I'd still put the Res. Arete as the best trad route on the wall I've done.

Thanks for putting it up, I had a lot of fun even though I wouldn't recommend it b/c I'd probably get yelled at by the person I suggest it to! Thanks to the previous party for your bail gear!

Gear (all anchors are bolted except the big pine tree pitch). One single 60m rope. 12 slings/draws. Doubles from green alien size to #2 camalot. One blue alien size, one #3 camalot, and one #4 (new size) camalot. Some nuts and some rps. The pitches are all mostly very long and since the rock isn't great, I liked having a bit more gear to back my ass up. I emptied the rack on the hand crack pitch. The route goes quickly if you do. Oct 29, 2008
Nick Dolecek
Denver, Colorado
Nick Dolecek   Denver, Colorado
I would second the things that have been said so far. This is a cerebral route. All the pitches are cruiser at the grade with the exception of the crux pitch. The crux is thin and technical. What makes this route unique is the heady nature of the climbing, and the fact that there is enough natural gear to be had not to be too crazy.
It is a good long day, and goes very fast due to the bolted anchors. A good warm up route is 'Fiddler on the roof'. If you feel confident on this, you will be alright on the woman.
This is the funnest route I have done thus far at RR. Great partner, Impecable weather, and just enough adventure to feel tough at the end of day without being crushed. Dec 13, 2008
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11- PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11- PG13
I definitely think this route deserves a star simply for being the proudest line straight up the center of the one of the biggest walls in Red Rocks and another star for being so serious. This is far more serious than Fiddler on the roof - if you screw up here you are on your own a LONG ways from help and facing a very difficult self rescue. The route progressively deteriorates to loose, wet and dangerous climbing so is truly an adventure desert rockaneering route not to be taken lightly. For those planning on this route I will give a bit of beta here – don’t read it if you wish to have pure adventure.
The Approach 2 to 2.5 hours: Walk behind Wilson’s pimple almost to the high point of the pass – just north of there is some flat camp sites – go West here aiming for the hillside just to the right of the red dirt gully. Wander up this to the base of the loose red cliff- go left around that section to the White rot gully and climb it up and right under the chock stone to the base of the cliffs. Walk right – bushwhacking all the way to the top of the gully (past Inti), then down a short distance on the other side. Third class back up a gully – some stemming and climbing up a red gully for about 500 feet, then traverse left to a big pine tree at the route base.
The climb: Gear – 1 set of wires, one set of cams to #3 Camalot size, 10-12 long slings and a few quick draws (or just use long slings). Most of the pitches are 100-120 feet, none are very long. This is a serious climb that would be hard to get a rescue on and is full of loose, dirty rock so be prepared. Pitches 1-3 – dirty climbing up the gully, you can traverse right up some moss covered wacos at start of pitch 3 and climb a dirty corner to the ledge at the base of the hard pitch if you want to bypass the fatter cracks in the gully. Pitch 4 5.11a – great well bolted thin 5.11 (at start) edge-smearing to a hanging belay about 100 feet up. Pitch 5 5.9/10a– mossy, dirty climbing in sections but pretty easy for the grade. Pitch 6- 4th class. Pitch 7/8 5.9/10a – really nice steep climbing up center of face with pretty good protection and good crimpy holds – easy to link both pitches to a hanging belay. Pitch 9 5.9/10a – Stout for the 5.9 grade – great climbing in steep crack sections up and then right of belay. Pitch 10 – climb initial crack on left for 30 feet, step left and climb next crack for 20 feet (it gets really dirty above), step left 10 feet (do not go all the way to next obvious crack since it is off width) into an incipient crack system that takes good gear and climb the dirty face. Pitch 11 5.8 – dirty run-out sometimes loose pitch to the right of the arete. If you have 3 big cams, the dihedral/roof above looks great and would be cleaner and more aesthetic. Pitch 12 5.8 – climb dirty moss covered ramp to left (be sure to put gear in here as you won’t get anything when you climb off the ramp into the system above.) At end of ramp climb run-out section into the loose chossy corner being careful not to pull of any giant blocks. Step left at top of corner to a great ledge belay. Pitch 13 5.9 – cool traverse right over a steep section past a bolt, then up a dirty thin crack, step left to a moss filled crack and get a piece of gear then climb the run-out face to its right (unless you want to garden out the moss and dirt in the crack. Pitch 14 5.8 choss – be sure your belayer is in safe area since this pitch is a wet, moss and dirt covered overhanging pile of looseness. Carefully climb straight up to the tree. Exit – traverse right a distance to the gully – 4th or 5th class climb past initial steep section of the gully then about 100 feet up the gully at which point it gets steep and hard – go left here to the ridge and a tree for a belay. Next section follows the weaknesses of the ridge (3rd class) to the last 20 foot section of red rock – a few 5.7 moves put you on the summit.
The descent: This is easy if long (3 hours - SEE PHOTOS) – look west from the summit. At the far end of the sandstone, just before the limestone is a steep curving sandstone ridge – this is your goal. Do not go down to soon, do not start down until you are sure you are in the giant ponderosas (not the scrub Junipers). Notice the white sandstone ridge all the way west to that point – you want to follow this ridge all the way west. Beware that about ¼ way out you drop down into a large drainage. Do NOT go down this drainage but instead climb back out the left side (look at it in advance to figure out where to climb out - it is deep, steep and if done wrong will be 5th class) and continue descending the white sandstone ridgeline. At the end of the rock ridgeline you drop into another wash that has limestone scree on the opposite side – notice a ridge line on the opposite side of that scree hill – that is your goal - Walk down the West-facing hillside then very slightly up the limestone scree hill and right onto that ridge. Follow that ridge further back and you will drop into the big ponderosa pine stand, which lets you know you are on route. At this ponderosa stand descend to the right down and north into the small drainage - it feels too small but it is the right direction. After a few minutes you will come into an open section with a huge red tower that has a rock balanced on top. Traverse around the right (north) side of that tower then back left onto the steep water worn multicolored slabs. Weave you way down these slabs into the start of the South fork of Oak creek – descend all the way to your car. The upper section has some big drops that can be walked around except in two sections where there are fixed rappels or fixed rope to hand over hand descend. Apr 20, 2010
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Tim's beta and gear recommendations are right on. Given how the top 400+/- feet wander, I feel it's probably better to unrope and scramble if you are comfortable. It's also a lot of fun with huge exposure. Although the upper pitches do deteriorate in quality, with few exceptions, they're still fun and on a couple, the exposure and positions feel really crazy. The descent is cool and passes some beautiful areas. As of 11/4/12, the fixed lines were still in place where needed. Only thing I'd add about the descent is that it is a lot further back into the top of Oak Creek than you might originally think. KEEP going. You will see the tower with the rock balanced on top if you are in the right area. Also, don't be pulled prematurely to the right (north) by cairns as you start walking west towards the rear of Oak Creek. I am curious, however, as to where they lead. Nov 8, 2012
Laurel Arndt
Laurel Arndt   Phoenix
Just did this climb last weekend. It was on my tick list since doing Inti and hearing about it from Joanne/Manny
This is such a straight forward approach and climb. The only delay was associated with the trail leaving the camp area at Wilson Pimple. It is not as easy to find since the rains have really impacted the trail up to the red band cliff. Had we waited for more light it might have been easier. The approach after Resolution and Inti is well cairned and as long as you read everyone elses description of the approach/start, you can't miss it.
Here are some route comments:
Pitch 1 and 2: Not your typical RR 5.8. They required thought and awkward moves. The second pitch goes up a water trough (slick) and is unprotected for about 15 ft and made me very nervous leading thru that(not feeling 5.8ish).
Pitch 3: The "move" up below top of tower felt more like 10.
Pitch 4: The first three bolts were spicy and needed my full concentration to lead and I schucked my pack to stay on balance and move better on the remainder of the climb. Above the third bolt it is really awesome climbing. I agree that the bolts were spaced wider, and the moves are delicate but they are all there. We both felt this pitch took something out of us. My hats off to Joanne!!!
Pitches 5-10: Awesome RR climbing: a solid crack for pro and lots of features to keep you moving and cruising. We did not feel that the climbing deteriorated in the upper pitches, maybe we are use to too much Sedona climbing?
Pitch 11: Partner decided to take the chossy roof move and it is definitely a 10 move. Run out face would have been easier.
Pitch 12 Did not feel especially loose or chossy
Pitch 13: The money pitch ...so disappointed I did not get pictures, pull out camera to get money shot. We both felt pro was good and climbing was solid RR 5.10, which means holds right were you need them.
Pitch 14: yeah its blocky loose, heads up
Pitch 15: Go to left side of block and its easy stuff
Scramble to top had one 5th class move, not 400 ft and you just head for summit.
Descent: We went down Oak Creek. There are cairns on top, they are not line of sight, so if you are going down in dusk or dark, you may have a hard time finding them. The first rap is under a cave ledge and is grey webbing, kinda hard to see and further down than I thought, but right where you need it as the area is very slabby/sloppy and mossy (no water this time). The handline is much further down Oak Creek Canyon, so don't expect to find any raps or handlines at the top.
Overall not near as daunting as I had thought it might be Oct 22, 2014
MN norske
Austin, MN
MN norske   Austin, MN
First two pitches may only be 5.8 but they are weird off width that you need 4's and 5's to protect or run it out. Pitch 7 is why you brought your RP's. The first bolt is 25 ft or so up (with 5.9ish climbing) and gear is marginal to not at all before that unless you have a #1 RP. Top two pitches are dirty as hell and loose. Besides what was said here all the other pitches have solid gear placements. Bring more small gear for upper pitches. Walk off through first creek. This is the easiest straightforward decent. Cheers.

Our times:

approach: 1.5 hrs
7 hrs on wall
decent: 1.5 hrs

This was not done at a rushed or fast pace. Apr 7, 2016
pete cutler
Des Moines, IA
pete cutler   Des Moines, IA
Great route. One thing that I thought was interesting though is the beta for the top-out scramble. From the tree at the top of the last pitch, we walked left up the ramp for 20 feet, then climbed the 10' (5.easy) step up to the fat, squat tree, then scrambled the 3rd class ridge to another 10' 5.easy step directly to the summit block.

Going right around the corner as the beta suggests looked like a heinous chimney thing. The way we went was super easy, and really quite fun simul climbing / walking. Plus we topped out right at the summit register. Apr 18, 2016
wayne wallace
wayne wallace   Seattle
Wrote a report about this AMAZING climb on my amateur site !
waynewallace.wordpress.com/…! Oct 19, 2018
m russi
New Haven, CT
  5.11a/b R
m russi   New Haven, CT
  5.11a/b R
Having talked with three other people who've been on the route, looked at a couple topos, and read the Handren description, Pete Cutler's beta is the best. This section of the route is confusing, and you'll likely be racing darkness at that point, at least in the shorter months. Jan 24, 2019
Lost an olive green North Face shell, men's large, on the approach to Inti/Woman/Resolution Arete. I first noticed it was gone in White Rot, but could have been anywhere before that. We approached from the Oak Creek pullout off the highway. If you find it, PM me. Thanks, Sean May 7, 2019 · Lost & Found