Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2000 ft (606 m), 15 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Sam Boyce et al Nov 2017|
|Page Views:||1,439 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Boyce on Nov 27, 2017|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1&2- approx 270 ft 5.8+; the route starts out on a lower angle chimney system. A short steep twin hand crack section is a highlight. Many belay options, or link together with a 70 with very little simuling. Belay at a couple pins on the right wall.
P3- 130ft 5.10c; This is the huge improbable looking right facing corner. Climb the corner until about 3/4 of the way up. Gear stops, but an easy exit out right becomes obvious. Don't miss the 0.3 placement after the moves exiting the corner, otherwise your follower will rightfully wish to hit you. Traverse right on 5.7 for 40 ft with no gear and clip a pin, find a blind foot around the corner and downclimb to it. a balancy 5.9+/10- compression-slab-boulder-problem gets you into the wide corner on the right. Belay in a crack just above.
P4- 100 ft 5.11a; This pitch feels like it belongs on a tower! Steep, unrelenting and physical. Start off with some awkward 5.9+ OW right off the belay, continue up this strenuous flare to the scooped roof. Pull the athletic roof into a short splitter #6 crack. A bizarre overhanging chimney above caps the pitch. Belay at a stance with a tree.
P5- 160 ft 5.9/10a; Start up the squeeze on the left, a funky and distinct crux move gets you from the squeeze into the flaring hand crack above. flaring crack and chimney continues up to a stance, belay above a rap anchor.
P6- 140 ft 5.10; This pitch is mostly easier but is still engaging. Continue up the chimney to the first roof, many features keep it surprisingly easy. A second roof above a ledge is a little harder to read. And a third roof above leads to the belay tree. This final roof is kind of flared and awkward to protect. Some crunchy 5.7R to the left optionally avoids it and makes this pitch 5.9.
P7- 130 ft 5.10a; Up easy face and cracks trending right, Climbing right of a water streak and aiming for the huge gash above. A final short corner crack guards the ledge above. This has a move or two that feels a bit hollow but is short-lived. Walk up this dirt ramp doing your best not to kick down dirt and rocks and squeeze into a cave at the end of the ramp. belay in the back of the cave.
P8- 80 ft 5.9; Squeeze through the tight hole to the right then chimney up to the top of the chockstone. This squeeze is quite tight, you may have to remove everything from your harness to fit. Easier blocky climbing above leads to a short corner to a roof. A short traverse spits you out on a ledge on resolution arete.
At this point you are at the base of p13 on the bell topo for the res (5.9+ traverse into the 5.7 chimney)
P9-15 finish on resolution arete
Descent- Best descent off Wilson is oak creek.