Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade V
FA: Sam Boyce et al Nov 2017
Page Views: 864 total · 48/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is the aesthetic crack and corner system ever so slightly uphill and lookers left Inti Watana. The crux pitches are spectacular; exciting, sustained and cerebral movement on bomber varnish. The easier pitches that follow continue up equally good rock in steep featured terrain to round out a proud line. The first pitch starts about 150 ft left of inti.
P1&2- approx 270 ft 5.8+; the route starts out on a lower angle chimney system. A short steep twin hand crack section is a highlight. Many belay options, or link together with a 70 with very little simuling. Belay at a couple pins on the right wall.
P3- 130ft 5.10c; This is the huge improbable looking right facing corner. Climb the corner until about 3/4 of the way up. Gear stops, but an easy exit out right becomes obvious. Don't miss the 0.3 placement after the moves exiting the corner, otherwise your follower will rightfully wish to hit you. Traverse right on 5.7 for 40 ft with no gear and clip a pin, find a blind foot around the corner and downclimb to it. a balancy 5.9+/10- compression-slab-boulder-problem gets you into the wide corner on the right. Belay in a crack just above.
P4- 100 ft 5.11a; This pitch feels like it belongs on a tower! Steep, unrelenting and physical. Start off with some awkward 5.9+ OW right off the belay, continue up this strenuous flare to the scooped roof. Pull the athletic roof into a short splitter #6 crack. A bizarre overhanging chimney above caps the pitch. Belay at a stance with a tree.
P5- 160 ft 5.9/10a; Start up the squeeze on the left, a funky and distinct crux move gets you from the squeeze into the flaring hand crack above. flaring crack and chimney continues up to a stance, belay above a rap anchor.
P6- 140 ft 5.10; This pitch is mostly easier but is still engaging. Continue up the chimney to the first roof, many features keep it surprisingly easy. A second roof above a ledge is a little harder to read. And a third roof above leads to the belay tree. This final roof is kind of flared and awkward to protect. Some crunchy 5.7R to the left optionally avoids it and makes this pitch 5.9.
P7- 130 ft 5.10a; Up easy face and cracks trending right, Climbing right of a water streak and aiming for the huge gash above. A final short corner crack guards the ledge above. This has a move or two that feels a bit hollow but is short-lived. Walk up this dirt ramp doing your best not to kick down dirt and rocks and squeeze into a cave at the end of the ramp. belay in the back of the cave.
P8- 80 ft 5.9; Squeeze through the tight hole to the right then chimney up to the top of the chockstone. This squeeze is quite tight, you may have to remove everything from your harness to fit. Easier blocky climbing above leads to a short corner to a roof. A short traverse spits you out on a ledge on resolution arete.

At this point you are at the base of p13 on the bell topo for the res (5.9+ traverse into the 5.7 chimney)

P9-15 finish on resolution arete

Descent- Best descent off Wilson is oak creek.

Location

Start 150 ft left of inti watana. With the white rot approach in such good condition, expect 1 to 1.5 hrs on the approach from the campground lot.

Protection

Doubles .3-#3 single .1,.2, and #4 and optional #6 (gear above your head at crux vs gear at knees) Single set of nuts including small offsets. 
Sam Boyce
Changes with the seasons
  5.11a
Sam Boyce   Changes with the seasons
  5.11a
This route has been cleaned and scrubbed, removing the bold choss-wrangling aspects experienced on the first ascent. Oh, and a big shout out to Kyle Willis, Royal Magnel, and Andy Stephan for all of the help in establishing this beast. Nov 28, 2017
Flava Flav
Seattle, WA
Flava Flav   Seattle, WA
On the First day of the FA, I climbed the first pitch to a reasonable belay after some excellent climbing interspersed with digging out briefcases of moss and dirt. At one point on the first day I think Sam and I both onsighted 5.bush, using them for upward progress. On p2 to achieve a better belay I downclimbed on and nearly dislodged easily a 400 lb. flake that was hanging on by who knows what, and threatened to chop and kill whatever was below it. After instructing Sam and Royal about what needed to happen next, some choad on Inti started yelling from around the corner like he was in charge of the mountain. We took great care to make sure there were no climbers below us. We even went on a Tuesday since Inti seems to have developed a conga line even on the weekdays.

P3 sam led the corner up what I thought looked nearly impossible to start, then 60 ft or so up he traversed right and risked a pendulum unprotected for maybe 40 ft, found the piton placements after some time looking. I sort of intentionally whipped on them a bit cleaning and sort of down aiding since I don’t climb that hard, and I thought they were pretty good placements. From what I climbed of the route (1-4), the climbing was solid, strenuous, and well protected.

The Wicked is a testament to Sam’s desire to draw long lines up big rocks. Dec 4, 2017