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Routes in Lower Level - Right

Adoption S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Burros Don't Gamble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burros Might Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Foe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Friend S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heavy Hitter, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hips Don't Lie (aka Punch Drunk) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M & M S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Michael Angelo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightmare on Crude Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychobilly S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
She's Deadly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Moore
Page Views: 5,469 total, 39/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on May 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

I was told that the first ascensionist wanted to rate this climb 5.11a. I am not sure if a final rating has been decided, but I consider it to be a mid-range 5.10.

There is a tricky sequence at the bottom of this route (smearing feet), followed by easier climbing. This second "crux" involves moving through some huge huecos near the top. If you proceed left through the huecos the climbing is easier, but more reachy; proceed to the right, and you have a few harder moves but they are very straight forward.

Location

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fifth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and starts in a right-facing scooped corner.

Protection

Several bolts to the shiny new chains.

Photos

Sam Sala
Denver
  5.11a
Sam Sala   Denver
  5.11a
Jumped on this after warming up on Friend, and thought it was considerably harder in spots (esp the start and top out). I'd buy this at 11a. First time in RRC and definitely felt like there was some inconsistency in grading. Couple of times where I felt sandbagged on a 10b then the 10a next door felt like an easy 9. Still a super fun weekend in the sun though! Apr 18, 2017
Manderson198
  5.10d
Manderson198  
  5.10d
A lot of different movements on this one. A smeary, bouldery start leads to big moves on juggy huecos. After the first big rest, you can go left to a cool flake, or you can take a much easier path to the right. Some sustained climbing leads to another great rest. Keep it together and clip the anchors using small crimps. Kind of awkward if you are pumped.

All in all, a great route. May 4, 2015
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.10d
This is a great route. Fun, awesome holds, sustained! Be ready for the start as it comes at you. The moves to clip the anchor are a bit interesting (I moved past to the jug above which could be a not so nice fall...).

Highly suggest you get on this one. Apr 24, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
I've climbed this route twice now and upon further reflection a couple of thoughts.

First, a stick clip isnt a bad idea for the first bolt- the starts pretty funky and doesnt have a great stance to clip the first bolt. The second is strenuous, but the holds are bigger.

Second, this route is really sustained- far more sustained than most other .10s ive done in Red Rock- even more so than the two sandbagged ones @ the Dog Wall- its probably an .11a compared to the other .10s in the area.

Third, not sure where the supposed crux is- didnt find a mantle anywhere on route, the thing just kept coming at me until the chains- although there was one move that felt pretty damn hard, but it could have been the pump.

Finally, I'd vote to move the anchor higher up than it currently is- clipping it is kind of a PITA and it'd be better to clip a bolt there, then climb up to the shelf and clip the anchor.

All in all, a great route and well worth doing if you're climbing hard .10s and in the corridor. Sep 9, 2010
Jordan Hrabak
Henderson, Nevada
Jordan Hrabak   Henderson, Nevada
Crux near the top Jul 9, 2010
dnoB ekiM
  5.10c
dnoB ekiM  
  5.10c
Great Route! Great Name! "One Fall, that's all!" Oct 18, 2009
scottydo
ventura, ca
  5.11a
scottydo   ventura, ca
  5.11a
I thought that this route was harder than Nightmare on Crude Street so I put it at 5.11a Apr 11, 2009
Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
I'm under the impression that this route's called The Heavy Hitter, I don't know, I could be wrong but........ Bottom line is that it is a really good route and general consensus on the grade seems to be 5.10c. Enjoy. Mar 20, 2007