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Mar 9, 2026
Working on this route some time in the 70s, one of us was trying to get gear at the crux overhang. Jim McCa… View Comment
Jan 24, 2026
The 1970 High Over Boulder calls this 5.9 and mentions the FFA by Behrens and Erickson. Did they avoid the… View Comment
Nov 18, 2024
Assuming we did this correctly (the first route having bolts left of Shimmer), the crux is a high step over… View Comment
Jul 15, 2024
D1-Grand Traverse, 5.9 IV, 8/11/78 IR, PR. Helicopter Crash. I vaguely remember a helicopter crashing t… View Comment
Jul 15, 2024
D1-Grand Traverse 5.9 IV 8/11/78 IR, PR Route Details Gear: Double rope, sit harness [note the “sit har… View Comment
Jul 15, 2024
D1-Grand Traverse 5.9 IV 8/11/78 IR, PR. Timeline: (Don Lauber [friend] came along to the bivvy and w… View Comment
Jul 15, 2024
D1-Grand Traverse, 5.9 IV, 8/11/78 IR, PR. My brother Paul and I did an early ascent of the Casual Route… View Comment
Jul 13, 2024
I’m reminiscing over my 1983 Touch the Sky guide and see that I did this route on 9/12/93 with Paul Duval,… View Comment
Apr 11, 2024
Here’s a follow-up to my historical post above from an email to me from Rich Perch a few years ago: Hey… View Comment
Apr 2, 2024
I did this in 95. My notes say, “scary squeeze—escape left to bigger chimney”. I definitely did not have bi… View Comment
Mar 31, 2024
I think I was on the FFA of this with Buck Tilley. I have notes saying that I climbed “S. Face Beckey Route… View Comment
Mar 31, 2024
I have notes from 8/12/77 for what I think is this route. I climbed it with Steve Amter. We thought it was… View Comment
Mar 28, 2024
Rich Perch and I climbed this on 7/12/74. At the time there was a 5.9 variation that went left around the a… View Comment
Mar 28, 2024
I was looking through my ancient Tetons guide (Lee Ortenburger, 1965) and saw that I had written in that I’… View Comment
Mar 28, 2024
I did this in August 1977 with Ron Matous. According to the info on this page, the FFA was in 77, so maybe… View Comment
Mar 28, 2024
Rich Perch and I climbed this in August 1977 doing what we thought was the first free ascent based on info… View Comment
Nov 30, 2023
The photo is from 1972, I think. I started climbing at the Gunks in February 1971 with my friend Steve Reif… View Comment
Sep 28, 2023
22 years after this climb was added the first comment was added. Not very popular? Near the top, we avoi… View Comment
Aug 10, 2023
OK route. The start is a bit strange with a big low angle bit after the first couple of bolts. After that,… View Comment
Aug 10, 2023
There are now two very shiny stainless bolts and rings just short of the top of this route. Those bolts are… View Comment
Oct 27, 2022
6 not 5 bolts. Chains, no Mussey hooks. Strenuous 8 or so at bottom. The crux is at the top moving left. Ea… View Comment
Jul 5, 2022
Good climb, but I’m a little confused by the description. I climbed the second line left of the tree follow… View Comment
Jun 28, 2022
I self-belayed this last week. It seemed pretty easy, but the rock was pretty bad in places, especially on… View Comment
Jun 28, 2022
I self-belayed this last week. Moderate climbing diagonals right on a white face past a few big pockets. Cr… View Comment
Jun 28, 2022
I self-belayed this last week. Wild but straightforward and secure with big holds: jugs, laybacks, finger l… View Comment
Jun 18, 2022
There’s a bolted variation near the top that goes up the face left of the crux arete. View Comment
Jun 18, 2022
After leading, I lowered from the rings to the anchor on Direct Hit. Partner Luke TR’d and lowered to that… View Comment
May 30, 2022
The crux is at the first bolt - much easier after that but fun. Near the top where various routes converge… View Comment
Apr 1, 2022
Yes, you need to link P1 and P2. What we did on that ascent was use a 70m doubled with the leader tied in o… View Comment
Aug 21, 2021
This seems to now have an independent start. Bolts lead directly up to the hand crack. View Comment
Aug 31, 2018
Way back I self-belayed this with a 70m rope combining all pitches as one but coming short of the top ancho… View Comment
Aug 19, 2015
The "red thing" is the tails of a 2" tubular red webbing swami belt tied with a water knot, very common at… View Comment
Jun 19, 2015
Hi Uwe! The 60/40 was "stolen" by Bob Richardson many years ago. The Sierra Designs down "sweater" event… View Comment
May 21, 2015
There are no rings on the anchor bolts. The last person needs to lead easy rock up and left onto the big le… View Comment
May 21, 2015
This is on Negativity Slab and should be moved to that area. View Comment
May 14, 2014
The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from… View Comment
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