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Routes in Negativity Slabs

Cast Off S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cast in Stone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cast of Characters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Buddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brad Johnson, John Robinson
Page Views: 688 total, 13/month
Shared By: Brad J on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Crux low. Climb still a bit dirty.

Location

Third climb from left on Negativity wall.

Protection

All bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
oh bill, say it ain't so! Dec 16, 2016
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There are no rings on the anchor bolts. The last person needs to lead easy rock up and left onto the big ledge to good bolts and rings on the left. May 21, 2015
Bill Price
  5.7
Bill Price  
  5.7
Hey, I appreciate all the work you guys are doing putting up new routes and that was just the old tradster in me talking. I'm now a rap bolting, chipping, glueing, hang dogging old man. (chip & glue only on choss that nobody cares about). Keep up the good work and hope we could climb together some day. There is a lot more rock to develop up there for sure. Feb 12, 2015
Brad J
 
Brad J  
 
Bill
Thx for the feedback. I fixed the PG13 rating. Don't know how that happened:-)
As for bolting cracks... When John and I first started to develop / redevelop the area there were a couple of trad climbs Mike Carville told us about. We called the FA to discuss them and made sure we didn't impact them in any way. (One of those climbs is on the right side of Dollar Store. It's a 5.9 with no anchor at the top, although you can rap down one of our climbs or do the walk down to the right but it kind of sucks). While there are a few trad climbs at the Emeralds it is truly a sport area. The consensus decision was to develop it as such.

The original idea was the Negativity slabs were nothing more than quick access to the cave. We really had no idea that the slabs would develop a following. In retrospect, we should have considered the slab as a destination rather than an expressway to the fun stuff.

We could remove the bolts if there is enough demand but remember: Almost everyone that goes up into the cave climbs the two easy climbs and none of them bring a rack.

We are going up in the spring to try and develop more climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range as this seems to be the most popular range at the Emeralds. Got our eyes on several new walls.........

Hope to see you up there Bill

Brad Feb 8, 2015
Bill Price
  5.7
Bill Price  
  5.7
I know nobody brings cams to a sport cliff but bolts next to a crack? and what does pg13 mean, under 13 beware? things sewn up, skippin bolts. Feb 1, 2015