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Routes in Half & Half Crag

After Shocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Half a Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rouge Element T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft
FA: Scott Kimball
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Jul 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

'Crags' slab climbing at its best. Sack-up for this one. "It ain't no sport climb - it's a bolted rock climb!" Stellar slab climbing, edges, and pasting.

Start on a network of web-like seams in the middle of the wall, followed by a crux roof sequence.

Scramble over the top and down onto a platform on the SW corner of the Shark Fin.

Extra credit: while there climb the short, 5-bolt, but sweet Yellow Butterfly (5.9+) on Shark Fin.

Walk off, down around to the left (north) to return to the base in a counterclockwise hike. Totally worth the walk.

Location

This tall gray wall sits directly uphill from Woodstone, on the right (south) side of Half & Half Crag. the route is capped by a small roof at 120'.

Protection

2 pins and 8 bolts PLUS take some small wire-nuts, and C3s/Aliens up to #0.75 BD.

Photos

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