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Disruption
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Half & Half Crag
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After Shocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Close Call S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Half, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Direct Hit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disruption S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Early Warning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fault Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Half a Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Near Miss (aka 1st half of Direct Hit) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Alert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rouge Element T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Seismic Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 40.30637, -105.53712 |
| FA: | Bob Siegrist, September 15, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 862 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Siegrist on Sep 16, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area WAS closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area WAS blocked off. That has been rescinded.
Description
Disruption climbs Direct Hit to its anchors and then continues up and left to join the end of Rouge Element below the final roof on that climb. Climbing to the anchors on Rouge Element yields a 140 foot long climb to reach the top of Half & Half Crag. With a 60m rope ,there are at least two options to climbing Disruption: 1) the leader can belay at the top of Half & Half, and after the 2nd reaches the top, they can both walk off to the south and west or 2) the leader can thread the rings and the belayer can lower him/her to the anchors on Direct Hit, the leader can clip in direct there, pull the rope, retie in, and then lower from the anchors on Direct Hit to the base of the climb.
Location
Disruption is a linkup that connects the entire length of Direct Hit with the final bolted section of Rouge Element.
Protection
The route is protected with 20 bolts (14 bolts plus 1 of the anchor bolts on Direct Hit (note: use a long draw or sling with bikers to clip one of the anchor bolts to minimize rope drag), 1 bolt for the linkup section, and 4 bolts on Rouge Element). At the end of the climb, there is a 2-bolt anchor with descending rings located at the top of Rouge Element.
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