Type: Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dustin
Page Views: 1,300 total · 32/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Jul 1, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Description

These are pitches 3 & 4 of a much longer link-up named The Golden Staircase. It can be done as its own climb, as can different sections of the Staircase. Check out the climbs under the Woodstone and The Druid formations for other sections of the route.

Location

Start to left of Rouge Element (note to editors: the website would not let me order this climb correctly. It is to right of Half a Man and the recess mentioned in that route description and to left of Rouge).

Pitch 1: climb left edge of slab to semi-hanging belay. This is fun 5.9.

Pitch 2: climb steepening rock, turn the left edge, and climb a headwall overhanging a deep chasm. It has great position and movement; 11a.

Walk off the top to the south, and circle back to your pack on the west side of Half and Half, or link Sharksfin, etc.

Protection

I don't remember an exact bolt count, but 14 or 15 quickdraws should be enough for the protection bolts and anchors.

Per Doug Haller: if you link the pitches, you need 16 draws plus something for the anchors.

Photos