Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
The Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 33
votes
Routes in Half & Half Crag
|
After Shocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Close Call S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dark Half, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Direct Hit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Disruption S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Early Warning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Fault Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Half a Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Near Miss S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Red Alert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Rouge Element T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Seismic Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30637, -105.53712 |
| FA: | Dustin |
| Page Views: | 2,115 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Jul 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
These are pitches 3 & 4 of a much longer link-up named The Golden Staircase. It can be done as its own climb, as can different sections of the Staircase. Check out the climbs under the Woodstone and The Druid formations for other sections of the route.
Location
Start to left of Rouge Element (note to editors: the website would not let me order this climb correctly. It is to right of Half a Man and the recess mentioned in that route description and to left of Rouge).
Pitch 1: climb left edge of slab to semi-hanging belay. This is fun 5.9.
Pitch 2: climb steepening rock, turn the left edge, and climb a headwall overhanging a deep chasm. It has great position and movement; 11a.
Walk off the top to the south, and circle back to your pack on the west side of Half and Half, or link Sharksfin, etc.
Protection
I don't remember an exact bolt count, but 14 or 15 quickdraws should be enough for the protection bolts and anchors.
Per Doug Haller: if you link the pitches, you need 16 draws plus something for the anchors.
3 Comments