PRINT: Rock Climb The Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4, Estes Park Valley

The Golden Staircase; pitches 3 & 4

5.11a, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 24 votes
FA: Dustin
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Woodstone, Half… > Half & Half Crag

Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.

Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.

Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

These are pitches 3 & 4 of a much longer link-up named The Golden Staircase. It can be done as its own climb, as can different sections of the Staircase. Check out the climbs under the Woodstone and The Druid formations for other sections of the route.

Location

Start to left of Rouge Element (note to editors: the website would not let me order this climb correctly. It is to right of Half a Man and the recess mentioned in that route description and to left of Rouge).

Pitch 1: climb left edge of slab to semi-hanging belay. This is fun 5.9.

Pitch 2: climb steepening rock, turn the left edge, and climb a headwall overhanging a deep chasm. It has great position and movement; 11a.

Walk off the top to the south, and circle back to your pack on the west side of Half and Half, or link Sharksfin, etc.

Protection

I don't remember an exact bolt count, but 14 or 15 quickdraws should be enough for the protection bolts and anchors.

Per Doug Haller: if you link the pitches, you need 16 draws plus something for the anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Claire Mearns leading P3 of Golden Staircase.

Michelle climbing on P3 of the Golden Staircase.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lew Strong

This had a large loose hold at the crux of the headwall. I climbed this either last fall or this spring before it was in MP, so I could not post this sooner. We linked the pitches, and it was not safe to clean it with my belayer on the ground. My follower could not find it to pull it off. Perhaps it has been cleaned by now. Also, look for the anchor bolts a little ways back from the edge on the first good rock. It took a minute for me to notice them. Very nice pitches. Oct 5, 2018

Bob Siegrist
Boulder and Estes Park, CO

P3 of the Golden Staircase can be done as a 100 ft long pitch of climbing at 5.8+/5.9- difficulty. It is equipped with 9 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor with chains. With a 60m, rope one can lower or rap and just reach the ground. Jul 23, 2019

Dom R
Estes Park, CO

The first pitch is one of the nicest long 5.9s around - a great warm-up at the crag. The second pitch is pleasant and steep. I find it to be the crux of the Staircase. Jun 28, 2022