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Upper East Face Rock Climbing
Routes in Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DH1? T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 7,148 ft |
| GPS: | 40.002, -105.388 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 40,600 total · 255/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 30, 2006 |
| Admins: |
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
History (Admin Only):
Leo Paik edited
"Description"
Jan 20, 2019
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update
Details
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Upper East Face is the steep wall on the right side of East Blob Rock.
It has some great, harder routes like Schizofrantic (11b), The Ticket (12a), and The Enlightenment (13b). It also has the most popular multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon, The Young and the Rackless (9).
Routes from left to right:
above A. Unknown, 12+?, bolts.
A. The Young and the Rackless, 9, 2-4p, 300', bolts.
B. DH1?, 9+, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
C. Blind Trust, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Grey Elk's Big Rack, 11- PG-13, 3p, gear & bolts.
E. Nighthawk, 10-, gear.
F. Mile High Comic Crack, 12-, gear.
G. Shock Therapy, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
H. The Enlightenment, 13, bolts.
I. Schizofrantic, 11b, bolts + gear.
J. Saturday Treat, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Vicious Rumors, 11, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
L. The Ticket, 12-, bolts.
M. Long Live Rock, 11-, 100', gear.
It has some great, harder routes like Schizofrantic (11b), The Ticket (12a), and The Enlightenment (13b). It also has the most popular multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon, The Young and the Rackless (9).
Routes from left to right:
above A. Unknown, 12+?, bolts.
A. The Young and the Rackless, 9, 2-4p, 300', bolts.
B. DH1?, 9+, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
C. Blind Trust, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Grey Elk's Big Rack, 11- PG-13, 3p, gear & bolts.
E. Nighthawk, 10-, gear.
F. Mile High Comic Crack, 12-, gear.
G. Shock Therapy, 12, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
H. The Enlightenment, 13, bolts.
I. Schizofrantic, 11b, bolts + gear.
J. Saturday Treat, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Vicious Rumors, 11, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
L. The Ticket, 12-, bolts.
M. Long Live Rock, 11-, 100', gear.
Getting There
Take the trail to Blob Rock. Head right and down below Blob Slab, then cut up the gully on the right side of East Blob. The Young and the Rackless starts by a dead tree; the other routes lie up the gully from there.
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper East Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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